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Routes in New Quarry

Bitter and Twisted S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bushmen Don't Surf (Chepstow Zombie Finish) S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
En Trend T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Crag for Old Men S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: M Ward, G A Jenkin, 11th February 1989
Page Views: 24 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jul 9, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A power-endurance line on shiny but positive edges up the left hand side of the New Quarry. The crux is low down and the moves get gradually easier as height is gained, but it's pretty sustained and those moves don't feel easy on the RP. The main hurdle to climbing this route is persuading your head that you feet will stick to the heavily polished rock.

After clipping the final bolt, you can either stay left and make a fingery move up to the arete, or span rightwards into the finish of Dinosaur Beach.

Location

The second bolt line from the left of the quarry, up the blank, shiny wall.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt lower-off

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