GPS: 34.479, -119.706 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Wall 3 has some of the longest routes in the canyon. The sandstone is softer on the tower, but still takes perfect gear where you need it (for the most part). Arguably the best belay station in the county is under the oak at the top of "Pussy Cat," very remiscent of Church Bowl.

Andreas Skielboe on "Birthday Party" on Wall 3 Tower

There are three sections to Wall 3: Lower Right Flank, Lower Left Flank and the Central Tower. Shark Ride, A Frog in My Hand and, for the most part, Make it 100 are done as 2-pitch routes, starting on the lower left and finishing on top of the tower. The lower right routes can also link up to the tower (which makes it more enjoyable than just scrambling up the gully).

Feel free to mix & match route sections. The criss-crossing lattice work invites lots of route modifications and basic "rolling your own."

The Wall 3 Tower route starts. (The climbers in the pic, upper left, are on the 2nd pitch of "Shark Ride.")

Getting Down
There is a Fixe rap ring anchor on the face at the very top of the tower. A 70m will just get you to the ground. A 60m is okay, but you will need to swing into the bushy left corner if you're not feeling the downclimb. (Actually, even if you swing into the bushy corner, you're still going to need to downclimb, but it's just a bit easier.)

The view down the canyon from Wall 3 Tower. (Note the rap station.)

Note where a 60m will take you when you swing left.

Getting There

About 60' up from the left end of Wall 2 you'll find the start of the right flank. The tower can't be seen from below. The left and right flanks are separated by a loose 3rd class gully that takes you up to the base of the tower. Left flank routes start on a big shady platform near the rock grave and old pot.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall 3

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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I spotted the tower from Arlington Peak a few weeks back, and noticed all the clean-looking and abundant cracks. Thanks for posting up, Jeff. Some good crack climbing to be found here, which will hopefully clean up with more traffic. A cordless leaf blower might be a good thing to add to your rack to help empty the loose dirt and leaves out from the cracks.

Where's the entry for Putrid Rat? I thought it was the best line on the tower - long, with lots of hand-slamming fun. 5.7ish?

Also - there is currently an active beehive halfway up the lower left flank wall. Might be a good idea to stay away from this section until they move on. Apr 27, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
I listed most of my routes. All the ones without entries were put up by the other members of the goon squad. They're on MP daily; hopefully they'll start filling in the gaps.

Glad you were able to get some laps done up there. Lots and lots to climb. Wall 2 has some very good, long routes, too. (Thanks for the heads-up on the bees. A few swarms have moved through the last few times we were up there. As long as you stay at least 8' away and aren't wearing dark clothing, you're usually good to go.) Apr 27, 2014