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Routes in Wall 3

A Frog in My Hand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birthday Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blow Hard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don't Forget My Boots! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang On, Kid! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Could Eat a Horse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putrid Rat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What on Earth? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Jeff Baugher 8/4/13
Page Views: 489 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the lower left flank of Wall 3.

The start of "Shark Ride" (Yes, you can get a good cam in that hole where the seam heads up right, but your next piece won't be for another 20' at least)

Fun & spicy on hard rock to start. The mental crux is following the diagonal seam on your toes up to the first pod, only to discover you can't place any gear until you pull through to the next pod at about 35'. From there, walk your toes across the left-leaning crack and then straight up to a shelf below a mini-bulge/roof. Pull the roof with a double gaston then head right over to the pinnacle. Slot a piece on the second horizontal and then surmount the shark fin, up and over on a razor edge and follow this up and back to the upper left side of the Wall 3 Tower. Build your anchor here in the horizontal crack above the pedestal you're on.

One anchor option.

Pitch two takes the thin crack up to the next horizontal break and then a beautiful lieback flake (if only it were 30 feet longer...). Sling the flake or place a marginal bigger cam to the right of your feet, then finish up the patina edges on the face.

Looking up at P2. Take the thin crack up.

A full-value route.

Looking down from the top of "Shark Ride"

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. A smaller offset nut will slot beautifully in the improbable thin crack a few moves off the pedestal on P2---and the sandy nature of the rock and instant exposure make it all worth it.

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