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Routes in Wall 3

A Frog in My Hand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birthday Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blow Hard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don't Forget My Boots! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang On, Kid! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Could Eat a Horse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putrid Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What on Earth? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 9/2/12
Page Views: 1,619 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The attractive lightning bolt line below the big oak tree on the right side of Wall 3 Tower.



A contender for the best finger-crack route in the area (if only the upper part were a lot longer, alas). Head straight up to the horizontal, step right and go. The rock is on the soft side and skidaddly down low but gear will become abundant. Sew it up or just enjoy the ride. Build an anchor off the tree.

It's a good idea to set up a toprope and run a lap on "What on Earth?" and/or "Cow" and/or "I Could Eat a Horse" if you're in that kinda mood. (And, if you rap off here, double check that the webbing hasn't been chewed through again.)

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)

Photos

Jason Schliekelman
Woodland Hills Ca
 
Jason Schliekelman   Woodland Hills Ca
 
great route, bomber gear as often as you want. as of yesterday there is a rather large tree down at the base of the route, rap slings are in great shape. Dec 4, 2017
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Every bit as good as people say it is. Great for the burgeoning 5.8 leader. Jul 27, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The excellent finger crack up high has already been commented on, but this route also boasts outstanding hands lower down. May 13, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Well, if it's any consolation, we'll be putting our "sport" crag on here soon, which is north-facing and has a 4-minute approach---but sadly only 40 routes... May 5, 2014
Cori Tite
Sylmar, CA
  5.8
Cori Tite   Sylmar, CA
  5.8
Hitting the pool was required once we got there to cool off from the approach before we climbed. It was hot on Saturday and we felt a bit beat down by the sun before we even got to the crag. We left the crag late so a post climb swim was a bit out of the question. Nothing quite like a hike back from the crag with the ol' headlamp. May 5, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Thanks, Cori. If the wear on the tree or the constant gnawing turns into a rat's nest of webbing, I'll most likely put in some rings. Glad you got up there this weekend (hopefully you hit the pools afterward). May 5, 2014
Cori Tite
Sylmar, CA
  5.8
Cori Tite   Sylmar, CA
  5.8
I was up there Saturday afternoon (5/3/14) and installed a new rappel station that is positioned closer to the edge of the cliff than the original one(the original rap station with the webbing that keeps getting chewed is difficult to inspect and is set a small distance back from the wall). Hopefully the new rappel station will not be as enticing to the local critters versus the original one; it is definitely easier to inspect. May 5, 2014
Very nice line; certainly a contender for "best 15' finger crack" in SB, and undoubtedly the best (and only?) 5.8 finger crack. This is the cleanest line on the wall with excellent gear and jamming. I personally prefer Gnome Fingers, but this is a close 2nd. Apr 27, 2014

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