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Routes in Wall 3

A Frog in My Hand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birthday Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blow Hard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don't Forget My Boots! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang On, Kid! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Could Eat a Horse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putrid Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What on Earth? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 5/28/12
Page Views: 334 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start at the lowest point of Wall 3 Tower and head up to just before the chimney. Cross over right to the finger crack and head straight up passing several insecure moves. At the top of the crack, gain the ledge and carefully work around and over the "flake of doom" onto the face. Move up trending left to the top.

Location

The center route on Wall 3 Tower.

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.) Slings will minimize rope drag.

Photos

Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
Awesome, Andy! So great to see you enjoying the lines. (Yes, my middle name is Bueller. I'll be back up there this Saturday, hopefully getting a bit o' cleaning done...) Jul 29, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I absolutely loved this route. Once someone (Bueller... Bueller) cleans the leaves out of the cracks, there's some nice finger-locks, hand-jams, and rather elegant face moves. Once I neared the top, I stepped left to finish on the upper face of Birthday Party, making for a diagonal exploration of the Tower. I highly recommend this variation! Jul 27, 2014
The flake of doom is a little scary, but otherwise has lots of fun finger-and-tips jams with insecure feet. Trundled a hundred pound block off of the alternate start - I wouldn't recommend going that way. Apr 27, 2014