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Routes in Wall 3

A Frog in My Hand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birthday Party T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blow Hard T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don't Forget My Boots! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang On, Kid! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Could Eat a Horse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putrid Rat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What on Earth? TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Ches Upham and Chris Wing, 5/28/12
Page Views: 957 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ches on May 4, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The long hand crack directly underneath the rap rings, just left of the U-notch at the top.

The name comes from a dead rat that made us hurry past some of the fun jams on the first ascent. Don't worry though, the namesake is now long gone.

Start underneath the crack (or bypass the start) and cruise to the notch at the top. Alternatively just keep climbing to the bolted anchor.

When rappelling, a 60 m rope will get you 20'+ from the ground. Either down climb or just swing left and take the 3rd class gully the last few feet. Just be mindful of where your ends are.

Protection

Standard rack (?)
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This is a thoroughly enjoyable long, moderate crack and a great introduction to Panic Town.

We rappelled this route with a 70m rope and the ends just touched the ground. May 13, 2014
Ches
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Ches   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Good call. It's fixed now. Some simple math would have been an easy double check too! (130' route puts you 30' from the ground without stretch)

I like splitting the difference and swinging left a bit and down climbing a bit. May 5, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Hmmm, you may want to say "10' from the ground when you swing left." More like 20+ if you're on the fall line (and you still need to pull that rope). I have proof (and yeah, that's you, pal): mountainproject.com/v/10893… May 5, 2014