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Routes in Delta Dome

Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 7,250 ft
GPS: 32.418, -110.753 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,017 total, 112/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Back when we were developing The Steep, we used to look down towards the stream, and across the canyon, and try to identify interesting crags. I identified 3 that I called Delta, Echo and Foxtrot (newly named the Spectrum Wall), and put them on my list of places to visit. Delta did not look all that great to me. I couldn't see any overhangs, so I thought it would just be crappy slabs if anything. Tony had been there and showed me some topos, but I didn't really pay any attention. But last summer (2013), after putting it off for years, I finally stopped by Delta.

And what a beautiful spot ! No people, great looking stone, big trees untouched by fire, and you can hear sabino creek running just below. Tony had done several routes, but also left the best-looking face alone, and had never red-pointed one of the best routes. So I drilled a few holes and did some climbing. To my surprise I ran into some of the best vertical routes I've done. The Steep has some excellent 11s (George, Blue Sky, Spiderman), but I think the >>FIVE<< (6 now ?) 11+s at Delta are as good or better.

One of the few Mt Lemmon crags that require technical climbing to reach the summit. The Steep is another. If you are looking for a real, old-school reach-the-summit experience, do the East Crack route, climb past the anchor and belay on top of the crag.

The FIN is a really cool rock feature. It is an (almost) free-standing tower about 100 feet high, leaning against the main dome. Its NE face is made of incredible rock...really nubbly with lots of side-pulls and fingery stuff. It's really fun, a true 5.11 heaven. The FIN is also a natural windbreak against the prevailing southwest wind. You can probably climb comfortably on Fin Arete, and the routes to the right, even on windy days.

Getting There

You can get there from Raycreation. Or from the Steep.

OR... if you're feeling adventurous...

Take the Aspen Loop trail as though you were going to the Steep. After about 10 minutes you will run into a WILDERNESS BOUNDARY sign. The sign is on the right side of the trail. At this point, go LEFT off the main trail onto a climber trail.

The climber trail traverses east up a steep hill side for about 5 min. Then it flattens out, and you are in a grove of small trees. Look for the path to trend LEFT and go over a couple of fallen trees. Follow the faint path east (through the sticker bushes) until it becomes more obvious again. At this point you can see Ireland across the canyon to the east. Look for a very long fallen tree pointing down the hill to the NE. Follow along its north side and then swing south once you are around it.

Now you are into the pines again, and the path continues south and starts heading down to Delta. From this point the path basically parallels the creek to your east. Cairns, blazes, foot-prints and machete-work should show the way. From the long fallen tree to Delta is about 1500 feet and you gradually lose about 200 feet of elevation.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Delta Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

jbak  
I renewed the trail to Delta yesterday. I noticed that some new cairns had been built since I was last there, and I thank whoever did it.

I blazed trees, cut limbs, lined the trail and built over 50 cairns. Should be followable now. Aug 23, 2017
jbak  
Another large thanks to Myk Brown who worked his magic on the trail to Delta. It may even be followable by someone who has never been before.

Weirdly, almost all of the 200 cairns I have made during the past few years were gone when we went in. Not just kicked over... GONE. Can't imagine how that could be. Sep 16, 2016
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
Note about the new approach beta. There is a sign right where you leave the aspen trail and turn left onto the approach. Check the photo I added. Somehow I blow the approach on the way back every time. Pay attention on the way in if you don't want to thrash on the way out. Hehe. What a great crag. Thanx a bunch jbak and co! Jun 9, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Thanks for developing and sharing a beautiful crag with fantastic climbing. I am loving the routes both technically and aesthetically. Jun 7, 2015
Fun fact, without blinking, John soloed about 50 feet of questionable, delicate face climbing with a drill and a single quickdraw to clip to what appeared to be a bolt at the lip of this beast so we could get to top for the first time. Although if you ask him he will probably say it was about half the height haha. May 11, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
One bonus about this area is that one side faces due east, one side due west, making it very easy to chase sun/shade.

One safety note - last fall I attempted the route labeled South Rib on jbak's topo. The route was very good, but I never found the anchors. I climbed way above the last bolt, but down climbed back to the bolt. Maybe I missed the anchors, or maybe they have been added, but just a heads up. Apr 15, 2014

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