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Delta Dome Rock Climbing
Routes in Delta Dome
|Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|GPS:||32.418, -110.753 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||5,017 total, 112/month|
|Shared By:||jbak on Apr 14, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
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DescriptionBack when we were developing The Steep, we used to look down towards the stream, and across the canyon, and try to identify interesting crags. I identified 3 that I called Delta, Echo and Foxtrot (newly named the Spectrum Wall), and put them on my list of places to visit. Delta did not look all that great to me. I couldn't see any overhangs, so I thought it would just be crappy slabs if anything. Tony had been there and showed me some topos, but I didn't really pay any attention. But last summer (2013), after putting it off for years, I finally stopped by Delta.
And what a beautiful spot ! No people, great looking stone, big trees untouched by fire, and you can hear sabino creek running just below. Tony had done several routes, but also left the best-looking face alone, and had never red-pointed one of the best routes. So I drilled a few holes and did some climbing. To my surprise I ran into some of the best vertical routes I've done. The Steep has some excellent 11s (George, Blue Sky, Spiderman), but I think the >>FIVE<< (6 now ?) 11+s at Delta are as good or better.
One of the few Mt Lemmon crags that require technical climbing to reach the summit. The Steep is another. If you are looking for a real, old-school reach-the-summit experience, do the East Crack route, climb past the anchor and belay on top of the crag.
The FIN is a really cool rock feature. It is an (almost) free-standing tower about 100 feet high, leaning against the main dome. Its NE face is made of incredible rock...really nubbly with lots of side-pulls and fingery stuff. It's really fun, a true 5.11 heaven. The FIN is also a natural windbreak against the prevailing southwest wind. You can probably climb comfortably on Fin Arete, and the routes to the right, even on windy days.
Getting ThereYou can get there from Raycreation. Or from the Steep.
OR... if you're feeling adventurous...
Take the Aspen Loop trail as though you were going to the Steep. After about 10 minutes you will run into a WILDERNESS BOUNDARY sign. The sign is on the right side of the trail. At this point, go LEFT off the main trail onto a climber trail.
The climber trail traverses east up a steep hill side for about 5 min. Then it flattens out, and you are in a grove of small trees. Look for the path to trend LEFT and go over a couple of fallen trees. Follow the faint path east (through the sticker bushes) until it becomes more obvious again. At this point you can see Ireland across the canyon to the east. Look for a very long fallen tree pointing down the hill to the NE. Follow along its north side and then swing south once you are around it.
Now you are into the pines again, and the path continues south and starts heading down to Delta. From this point the path basically parallels the creek to your east. Cairns, blazes, foot-prints and machete-work should show the way. From the long fallen tree to Delta is about 1500 feet and you gradually lose about 200 feet of elevation.
Classic Climbing Routes at Delta Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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