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Routes in Delta Dome

Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: JBaker, JParks, Sep 2013
Page Views: 831 total, 19/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The pretty west face of Delta has an obvious stemming trough way up high. But how to get to it ?

Start from the south end of the ledge in the middle of the west face (2 old cold shuts there), or do the direct start to reach the ledge from the ground near the South Rib.

From the ledge, move up and right on progressively harder ground to a cool side-pulling, under-clinging crux. Continue up to a line of bizarre chicken-heads that take you on a rising, leftwards traverse towards the stemming trough. Big reach around a corner gets you into the trough. Great palming/stemming up the trough, past some giant heads, takes you to the Mussys.

THE DIRECT START ADDS 30-35 FEET TO THE ROUTE LENGTH SO KEEP AN EYE ON THE END OF THE ROPE. And, if you do the direct, read the description of West Face Direct for info on lessening rope drag.

The direct start (leading to the cold shuts on the ledge) can be done as a decent, 4 bolt, 5.9/5.10 in its own right.

Location

West face.

Protection

10 bolts and Mussys if done without the direct start.
Direct start adds 4 bolts and intermediate cold shut for a total of 15.

All bolts are SS 3/8 x 3-3/4 installed 2013. Cold shuts and bolts are non-SS and date from 2000ish.

Route has a cable-draw to aid cleaning.

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jbak
  5.11c
jbak  
  5.11c
On-sighted today by Josie W and rated 5.11. Jun 2, 2014
JoeS
 
JoeS  
 
A very interesting climb with a variety of different types of climbing. Might be a 4 star if not for the rock quality on the top section (which if you can ignore provides super fun moves). Apr 16, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
  5.11+
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
  5.11+
A fantastic route with a lot of variety and some very unique features. Apr 15, 2014