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Routes in Delta Dome

Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Probably Tony Lusk circa 2000
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 22, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Apparently the bolts end at the gear-protectable (?) rib high up. I wanted to get the route on here so I could give a heads-up about that detail.

I've talked to 2 parties who have done the route on separate occasions, and they both said the bolts ended and there was no anchor. I'll check it out as soon as I can.

Quality and diff ratings are hearsay and guessing. I haven't done the route.

Location

Just left (west) of the lowest part of the toe of the dome.

Protection

Bolts down low, gear up high.

Photos

- No Photos -
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I'll try to check out that bolt\ledge situation. And maybe fix it. And add an anchor. Maybe Tony wasn't quite finished. That's the best spin I can put on it. Aug 7, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Ankles away! Use caution as the crux sequence comes between the first and second bolts after the ledge. I sprained my ankle after falling here and hitting the ledge.

The route I climbed was entirely sport and finished on the anchors of West Face Direct. The climbing was mostly 5.10 with hard sequences at the start and above the ledge. Aug 3, 2015
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Above the last bolt, the climbing seemed to stay in a water groove trending left. If you anchored above the water groove at the ledge, I think there would be a lot of friction on the rope when lowering. So the last bolt is probably a good spot to end the climb.

The crux is right off the ledge about 25 feet up, watch those ankles. Aug 16, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
It looks to me like the highest bolt location should be the anchor too. It just needs a second bolt and some Mussys. I was going to drill a 2nd bolt yesterday but got driven off by lightning.

It is possible that Tony never completed the route. Aug 16, 2014
JoeS  
Joe Kreidel and I did this route and as John mentioned couldn't find anchors. It felt harder than 11 to me. It had a hard, short, and crimpy start. The climbing above was interesting, but more like 12a in my opinion. Would be a pretty good route with anchors. Are they there and we couldn't find them? Apr 22, 2014