Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: JWodraska, JBaker, CSnyder Sep 2014
Page Views: 545 total · 11/month
Shared By: jbak . on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route begins by doing the direct start to get to the ledge on the west face. Then it continues up to take in the crux of Journey To Ixtlan, but instead of hand-railing left on the chickenheads, you clip the cable-draw and then stand on the chickenheads and head straight up to the top of the crag.

There are 14 bolts and then Mussys. One of the bolts has a cable-draw, so the route could be done with only 13 QDs. But... you'll want to use LONG draws on this route or you will probably have rope-drag. And it's probably best to DOUBLE-DRAW the cold-shut on the ledge, the bolt after the cold-shut, and the cable-draw. So taking 18 or so long quick-draws is about right.

USE A 70 METER ROPE FOR THIS ROUTE !

Location

Tallest stretch of stone on the west face.

Protection

Bolts and Mussys.

Photos

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jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.11+
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.11+
I used a 2 footer at the mussy. A 3 footer at the next bolt. And a 1 foot extension at the cable draw. Perfect rope run but a little scared of ledge fall above the mussy. Really good route. Super technical Jun 9, 2015
jbak .
tucson,az
  5.11+
jbak .   tucson,az
  5.11+
I think you mean "a 2-footer on the COLD-SHUT". Jun 9, 2015
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.11+
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.11+
Yup. Thanks. That's what I meant Jul 9, 2015