Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Delta Dome

Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Probably Tony Lusk
Page Views: 541 total, 14/month
Shared By: jbak on Sep 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

For better or for worse... a long 5.11+ slab. Sustained.

Delta has several excellent routes in the 5.11+ range. The others are steeper with more positive holds, so I think they are more fun. This one is more slabby, and after 50 feet I'm wishing it's over. But that's just me, you may love it. It is certainly sustained and aesthetic.

Location

East face of main dome, just left of south nose.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Haha...John, don't you know that "delicate" and "slabby" are synonyms ? Apparently you haven't read "Leona's Big Book of Climbing Definitions" ! You would know that anything less steep than Tsunami is a slab. ;) ;) Jun 8, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
This is a wonderful and sustained route. However, I would not call it slab. It is near vertical delicate face climbing. Despite having no holds break I had trouble trusting a number of the small crystals, which slightly detracted from my experience - with traffic or additional cleaning that might change. Finally the chain could be extended and old webbing removed. This current setup twisted our rope. Jun 7, 2015
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Well stated Joe. I thought this was the one that Joe S said you really liked.

It is still a touch fuzzy. I broke a couple of holds and had trouble trusting some others. It is an outstanding example of tough steep slab. My problem is: above about 11b I'm not sure slab climbing is actually fun. Sep 15, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Maybe my favorite technical climb on the mountain. Makes you earn every move, and you never feel too confident in the moves ahead. Sep 15, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
This is an awesome route if you like steep, thin, slab climbing. Do it in the shade on a cool day and it might be pretty fun. I'm not sure I really liked it, but I just can't give it less than 3 stars. It's so good-looking. Sep 13, 2014