Safe Harbor North Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 255 ft | 78 m |
GPS: |
39.96741, -76.45453 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 308,084 total · 2,372/month | |
Shared By: | Climber dude on Apr 1, 2014 · Updates | |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Access Issue: Cemetery Wall OPEN to climbing - Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted for 2021
Details
Peregrine Falcons, a Threatened Species in Pennsylvania, are gradually making a comeback after being completely wiped out in eastern North America by DDT in decades past. There are only 57 nesting pairs of peregrines in the entire state, and only 13 of them nest on cliffs; the remainder nest on man-made structures. Further, only 3 of the nest cliffs are used by climbers, so those are the only sites where portions of the cliff need to be closed, and only for the nesting season, February 15 to July 31. Only the portion of the cliff within 250 yards of the nest needs to be closed; the rest can remain open, and the closed portion can be opened again once the young have fledged. During the nesting season, peregrines are very sensitive to disturbance: human disturbance during this time leads to nest failure or abandonment. Additionally, peregrines fiercely defend their nest sites from intruders, and can be quite dangerous to anyone disturbing them. Cliff nesting is crucially important to the recovery of peregrines; when they nest in unnatural, man-made locations (bridges and buildings), many of the young falcons die by falling into the river and drowning, getting hit by cars, colliding with glass windows or buildings, and other hazards of the urban environment. We ask your cooperation in allowing these magnificent birds, the fastest animals on earth, to nest at this cliff. This is a collaborative effort between climbers, wildlife biologists and conservationists to protect our outdoors and the wildlife we share it with. For more information and updates email: ctsnature@yahoo.com.
Description
This area can be thought of as analogous to the Gunks in that the Nears have a quite different "feel" than the Trapps. Likewise, Safe Harbor North has a different feel than South.
Same weather and facing as Safe Harbor south.
The routes tend to be more spread out.
Also the routes are steeper.
The grades are a little more 'gunks like also, which is totally fine. #keepnorthstiff
On sunny days there are many hikers and bikers on the trail.
Recommended gear: 60m rope. 10 20cm draws, 3 "alpine" draws and 2 shorter sport draws.
There are also a few mixed/trad lines.
Same weather and facing as Safe Harbor south.
The routes tend to be more spread out.
Also the routes are steeper.
The grades are a little more 'gunks like also, which is totally fine. #keepnorthstiff
On sunny days there are many hikers and bikers on the trail.
Recommended gear: 60m rope. 10 20cm draws, 3 "alpine" draws and 2 shorter sport draws.
There are also a few mixed/trad lines.
Getting There
Park at the north lot of the Enola Low Grade trail, which is at the top end of Safe Harbor North. This is hands down the best option for accessing the crag. The parking lot provides easy access to the rail trail which is smooth and level. You can walk or bring bikes to save time (the walls at North are spaced pretty far apart along ~5 miles of trail.) The first wall you see will be Sunset Wall. Address and coordinates here:
(2527 River Rd
Conestoga, PA 17516
GPS: 39.967432, -76.454550)
Or, you can park at Chestnut Grove parking (GPS 39.948447, -76.432095) if visiting Chimney of Horror section thru Euro wall. (1+ mile walk) This will put you on the rail trail in middle of the crag.
Finally, you can park at the bottom end of the crag on Observation Road if visiting Catfish Cliff through Cemetery Wall areas. (1+ mile walk). This approach is not simple or easy compared to parking at the lot at the far north end. After walking a section of road from the parking area, hike down the very steep section of trail to reach the rail trail. At the bottom of the hill you'll find yourself near the farthest south wall (Dam Wall). Coordinates here: (39.931881, -76.400958)
The numbers on the area pages here are for the mile posts along the trail.
(2527 River Rd
Conestoga, PA 17516
GPS: 39.967432, -76.454550)
Or, you can park at Chestnut Grove parking (GPS 39.948447, -76.432095) if visiting Chimney of Horror section thru Euro wall. (1+ mile walk) This will put you on the rail trail in middle of the crag.
Finally, you can park at the bottom end of the crag on Observation Road if visiting Catfish Cliff through Cemetery Wall areas. (1+ mile walk). This approach is not simple or easy compared to parking at the lot at the far north end. After walking a section of road from the parking area, hike down the very steep section of trail to reach the rail trail. At the bottom of the hill you'll find yourself near the farthest south wall (Dam Wall). Coordinates here: (39.931881, -76.400958)
The numbers on the area pages here are for the mile posts along the trail.
Temporary Access Restrictions Beginning September 9, 2020
Work will begin on the trestle bridge that connects Safe Harbor North and South. It is scheduled to be completed by November 1, 2021. During this time the crags at Safe Harbor North will be closed to climbing Monday through Friday. This is to allow the construction company room to operate. We are allowed to climb at North on the weekends (Saturday and Sunday ONLY), but we may only access it from the Chestnut Grove or Cemetery Wall Parking Lots. This weekend access is a special gift from Manor Township. Please don't do anything to screw it up. Email sethderr@yahoo.com with any questions or concerns.
Classic Climbing Routes at Safe Harbor North
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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