PRINT: Rock Climbing in Safe Harbor North, Safe Harbor

Safe Harbor North

Pennsylvania > S Central PA > Safe Harbor

Access Issue: Cemetery Wall OPEN to climbing - Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted for 2021 Details

Peregrine Falcons, a Threatened Species in Pennsylvania, are gradually making a comeback after being completely wiped out in eastern North America by DDT in decades past. There are only 57 nesting pairs of peregrines in the entire state, and only 13 of them nest on cliffs; the remainder nest on man-made structures. Further, only 3 of the nest cliffs are used by climbers, so those are the only sites where portions of the cliff need to be closed, and only for the nesting season, February 15 to July 31. Only the portion of the cliff within 250 yards of the nest needs to be closed; the rest can remain open, and the closed portion can be opened again once the young have fledged. During the nesting season, peregrines are very sensitive to disturbance: human disturbance during this time leads to nest failure or abandonment. Additionally, peregrines fiercely defend their nest sites from intruders, and can be quite dangerous to anyone disturbing them. Cliff nesting is crucially important to the recovery of peregrines; when they nest in unnatural, man-made locations (bridges and buildings), many of the young falcons die by falling into the river and drowning, getting hit by cars, colliding with glass windows or buildings, and other hazards of the urban environment. We ask your cooperation in allowing these magnificent birds, the fastest animals on earth, to nest at this cliff. This is a collaborative effort between climbers, wildlife biologists and conservationists to protect our outdoors and the wildlife we share it with. For more information and updates email: ctsnature@yahoo.com.

Description

This area can be thought of as analogous to the Gunks in that the Nears have a quite different "feel" than the Trapps. Likewise, Safe Harbor North has a different feel than South.

Same weather and facing as Safe Harbor south.
The routes tend to be more spread out.
Also the routes are steeper.
The grades are a little more 'gunks like also, which is totally fine. #keepnorthstiff
On sunny days there are many hikers and bikers on the trail.

Recommended gear: 60m rope. 10 20cm draws, 3 "alpine" draws and 2 shorter sport draws.
There are also a few mixed/trad lines.

Getting There

Park at the north lot of the Enola Low Grade trail, which is at the top end of Safe Harbor North. This is hands down the best option for accessing the crag. The parking lot provides easy access to the rail trail which is smooth and level. You can walk or bring bikes to save time (the walls at North are spaced pretty far apart along ~5 miles of trail.) The first wall you see will be Sunset Wall. Address and coordinates here:

(2527 River Rd
Conestoga, PA 17516
GPS: 39.967432, -76.454550)

Or, you can park at Chestnut Grove parking (GPS 39.948447, -76.432095) if visiting Chimney of Horror section thru Euro wall. (1+ mile walk) This will put you on the rail trail in middle of the crag.

Finally, you can park at the bottom end of the crag on Observation Road if visiting Catfish Cliff through Cemetery Wall areas. (1+ mile walk). This approach is not simple or easy compared to parking at the lot at the far north end. After walking a section of road from the parking area, hike down the very steep section of trail to reach the rail trail. At the bottom of the hill you'll find yourself near the farthest south wall (Dam Wall). Coordinates here: (39.931881, -76.400958)

The numbers on the area pages here are for the mile posts along the trail.

Temporary Access Restrictions Beginning September 9, 2020

Work will begin on the trestle bridge that connects Safe Harbor North and South. It is scheduled to be completed by November 1, 2021. During this time the crags at Safe Harbor North will be closed to climbing Monday through Friday. This is to allow the construction company room to operate. We are allowed to climb at North on the weekends (Saturday and Sunday ONLY), but we may only access it from the Chestnut Grove or Cemetery Wall Parking Lots. This weekend access is a special gift from Manor Township. Please don't do anything to screw it up. Email sethderr@yahoo.com with any questions or concerns.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Updated access map

Chestnut Grove Access

The 3 parking options for Safe Harbor North in relation to each other and to South. I learned the hard way and finally figured all of it out, so hopefully this is helpful for others

New approach to Safe Harbor North. Source: http://safeharborclimbing.com/?p=222

John Gehrig climbing and loving Barely Legal 5.12a, Euro Wall. Definitly worth the walk (or bike), super fun.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA

Is Safe Harbor North officially reopened now too? How cool!

If not let me know and I'll add an access note only for the north walls.

I can also help out with the admin tools as you flesh out the pages there.

I haven't been to Safe Harbor since I moved to California a couple of years ago. Out here we have a parallel crag to Safe Harbor, called Auburn Quarry.

After many years of closure, our local sport quarry is also opening to full time open access, a serious breakthrough. Here's to more quality neighborhood climbing spots! Apr 2, 2014

Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT

From a November 13, 2014 post safeharborclimbing.com/?p=222 on SafeHarborClimbing.com: "Safe Harbor North crags are now fully open to climbing, and we have recently received approval from the Manor Township Supervisor to approach Cemetery Wall from above via Observation Site Road. Theres a small parking lot at the gate, beyond which youll find a descent trail (on right) that will eventually lead you sharply downhill to the low grade. Turn right, and hike the low grade just a couple minutes to reach the highest climbs at Safe Harbor (on Cemetery Wall)." Mar 28, 2015

Rocky Raccoon
Mechanicsburg, PA

Is there any information about the glue ins that seem to be prevalent at Safe Harbor North? Just trying to get a sense of how much these can be trusted. It's a little more difficult to evaluate glue ins than some other kinds protection. Before anyone says it, yes, I know, the choice to use them is mine alone. Just trying to assess the situation. Apr 5, 2016

Scott Messick

They are bomber. They are way better than the wedge bolts in that type of rock. Jul 18, 2016

Will Brandenberger
Golden, CO

Rock is Phyllite (at least at Cemetery wall). Not the same as south safe harbor Triassic Diabase - be prepared to experience a little more choss. But only a little ;) Excellent climbing to be had, and some sweet sludgy calcite - loads of muscovite to light up under a headlamp if you’re night climbing, which I highly recommend

-The Neighborhood Geologist Oct 5, 2019

WF WF51

The grades seemed reasonable. Every podunk, backwater climbing area in the country does the same thing: "Our ratings are very stiff." Oct 20, 2024