Elevation: 194 ft
GPS: 39.935, -76.385 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 348,365 total · 3,619/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 17, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC
Access Issue: 2016: Closure LIFTED of Cemetery Wall to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

--- Seth Derr has a new comprehensive guidebook to both North & South that will be available for purchase (all profits to SCPC!) on April 1, 2019. You can contact Seth HERE for any questions and/or guidebook purchase. ---

Safe Harbor, approached through the village of the same name, is a sport crag that was closed for most of the last 15 years. Though originally established as a runout (R and X) trad crag, it is now one of Pennsylvania's best sport climbing destinations. Most rock here is low angle with good friction, with a few steeper lines mixed in; like the classic steep arete Wonderama (5.12b) in Safe Harbor South. The walls of Safe Harbor all face west-southwest, giving it plenty of daylight - very inviting in cool weather. After dark, I've seen groups climbing by headlamp.

Safe Harbor North is seeing a boom in development and now offers a wide variety of high quality routes. If you haven't checked the North out lately, maybe it's time for a revisit.

Conestoga township now owns the land that Safe Harbor is on, and access is free and open as of November 2011. Driving out of the crag on a Saturday evening, the Conestoga Wagon Restaurant looked pretty hopping, but as a "family" restaurant I don't think they serve "adult" beverages. Driving ten miles north to Lancaster will give you many choices.

There is no camping allowed at the crag. The nearest campground is Pequea Creek right down the road. Unfortunately, they are currently only open from April to October. Tucquan Park a few miles to the south might be open in the cool season.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing Facebook group is the best place to network with other SH climbers.

Getting There

The north and south areas have very different approaches. See those pages for driving and hiking directions.

Driving from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). Main Street ends in a T-intersection with River Road.

You'll turn left on River Road to climb the south, or right to climb the north.

Access

The local Access Fund affiliate is the Safe Harbor Climbers Coalition.

305 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Safe Harbor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 89
Le Eaglet
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Pro Bono
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 79
Two Pines
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Public Service
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Adopted Son
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 72
Eminant Domain
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Under Fire
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Slab Master
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 98
Mental As Anything
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 106
Safe Harbor Direct
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Locomotion
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Autumn Arch
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 78
Electric Co.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 60
Super Slab
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 63
Hydroman
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Le Eaglet Safe Harbor South > k. Hydroman Sector
 89
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pro Bono Safe Harbor South > f. Super Slab Sector
 77
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Two Pines Safe Harbor South > c Electric Co. Sector
 79
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Public Service Safe Harbor South > c Electric Co. Sector
 90
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Adopted Son Safe Harbor South > k. Hydroman Sector
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Eminant Domain Safe Harbor South > g. Autumn Arch Sector
 72
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Under Fire Safe Harbor South > c Electric Co. Sector
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Slab Master Safe Harbor South > f. Super Slab Sector
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mental As Anything Safe Harbor South > k. Hydroman Sector
 98
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Safe Harbor Direct Safe Harbor South > c Electric Co. Sector
 106
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Locomotion Safe Harbor South > g. Autumn Arch Sector
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Autumn Arch Safe Harbor South > g. Autumn Arch Sector
 110
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Electric Co. Safe Harbor South > c Electric Co. Sector
 78
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Super Slab Safe Harbor South > f. Super Slab Sector
 60
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hydroman Safe Harbor South > k. Hydroman Sector
 63
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Safe Harbor »

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