Type: Sport
FA: Hugh Herr, Tony Herr
Page Views: 4,991 total · 57/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 18, 2011 with updates from Climberdude
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

The historic first sport route to get bolted in Safe Harbor.

Little pockets, sometimes sharp, and just enough holds for fun, thoughtful climbing. Left-hand pocket used to get to the not-as-good-as-you'd-like horizontal near the top had a piece break off on Sunday. Was a little wet/dirty inside, and somewhat sharp, but usable. Crux was right at the top for us. My partner worked up the arete to the right and had a tricky step left to get to the anchors. I stayed in the corner, eventually getting a hand out/up left, then a heel to get settled. I then came up and right to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

MojoMonkey  
 
Little pockets, sometimes sharp, and just enough holds for fun, thoughtful climbing. Left-hand pocket used to get to the not-as-good-as-you'd-like horizontal near the top had a piece break off on Sunday. Was a little wet/dirty inside, and somewhat sharp, but usable. Crux was right at the top for us. My partner worked up the arete to the right and had a tricky step left to get to the anchors. I stayed in the corner, eventually getting a hand out/up left, then a heel to get settled. I then came up and right to the anchors. Nov 21, 2011
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
  5.10d
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
  5.10d
I honestly believe this line would be popular at any sport climbing destination anywhere. It's hard to believe it's on a railroad cut. Dec 14, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.10d
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.10d
I have to disagree Seth, I think this route is one of the more overrated routes at Safe Harbor, both in terms of difficulty and quality. Dec 3, 2012
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
  5.10d
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
  5.10d
No disagreement about the grade being soft but i'm sticking by my story that it's a rad route. Feb 14, 2013
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.10d
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.10d
When are you going to come out and climb with me on the Front Range?!?! May 22, 2013
ARMoss
  5.11a/b
ARMoss  
  5.11a/b
Finicky face moves up to the a ledge, then a few technical, powerful moves through the crux. The crux stumped me a few times before everything clicked and I cruised through it. Watch out for the ledge if you take a whipper near the top. Oct 20, 2013
Torren
Newark, DE
Torren   Newark, DE
I got on this for the first time yesterday. I felt the grade was pretty good. Most of the route went at 5.10 moves but that last bit right below the anchors was pretty tricky and felt 5.11ish. I think it feels easier since there is a no hands rest right below the crux.

Overall it was a pretty fun route so I think I'll add it to the rounds. Apr 6, 2015
gitarooman
  5.11a
gitarooman  
  5.11a
I have to agree with Torren. Feels easy 11ish but would feel more difficult if there weren't a giant ledge to rest on just below the top crux. Managed to get the top crux two different ways - once with a big heel hook right off the arete and another just smearing/stemming up the corner. Had a good time, worth a run. May 2, 2015
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
the description says "6 bolts to anchors". last I remember, unless I missed something, there was 5 bolts and then the anchors. Oct 14, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
5.11a/b
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
5.11a/b
Thanks Kurt, updated! Oct 14, 2015
there are a few wasps nests on this route. One is in one of the pockets right by the first bolt, so be careful not to just stick your fingers in there without looking. May 7, 2018
Kennedy Carey
  5.11a PG13
Kennedy Carey  
  5.11a PG13
2nd to 3rd bolt is a bit runout for my taste. But could probably remedy that with a cam somewhere in the #1-3 range. Oct 21, 2018