Elevation: 280 ft
GPS: 39.908, -76.364 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 214,316 total · 2,017/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 17, 2011 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Justin Johnsen, William Sonoma, SCPC

Description

Over eighty bolted single pitch sport routes along an abandoned railroad bed, a bit south of Safe Harbor Dam. Many of these have updated stainless steel hardware since their reopening in 2011, while some include 1980's or earlier vintage bolts and cold shuts.

Approaching from south to north, the climbing sectors reached (in order) are: Key West, Blood Sugar Magic, Electric Co., Tenuous Odyssey, Machismo, Super Slab, Autumn Arch, the Righteous and the Wicked, Numero Uno, Train in Vain, and Hydroman.

The South Central Pennsylvania Climbers website has Eric Horst's mini-guide to the south areas as well as the recently published guidebook to both North and South. The area divisions used here are from the mini guide.

Getting There

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

After turning left (south) on River Road at Safe Harbor Park, continue on River Road as it winds back uphill. Turn right on Green Hill Road. At the first four-way intersection, turn left on Brenner Hollow, and then take another immediate right back onto Green Hill. In another mile or so, just before a flower preserve sign, Green Hill turns downhill onto a gravel road and to a tunnel.

Park just before or after the tunnel (remember that everyone has to U-turn and drive out past you). There's enough room for many vehicles to park here.

Check for recent "No parking" signs, in case of recent changes.

A few feet from the northeastern side of the tunnel on Green Hill is the start of an unmarked climber's trail that leads from Green Hill Road to the Enola Low Grade Trail (the rails-to-trails trail). Walk through the woods for 5-10 minutes, mostly uphill, until you emerge from the woods onto the Enola trail, which is 50+ feet wide, completely covered in gravel, and flanked by a line of power lines. Turn right (north) and walk until you see bolts on the wall to your right (about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile).

Warning: If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

125 Total Climbs

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Location: Safe Harbor South Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Safe Harbor South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 106
Le Eaglet
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 84
Pro Bono
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Two Pines
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
Public Service
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 80
Adopted Son
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
Eminant Domain
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 79
Under Fire
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Slab Master
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 113
Mental As Anything
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 117
Safe Harbor Direct
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Locomotion
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 122
Autumn Arch
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
Electric Co.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Super Slab
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Hydroman
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Le Eaglet k. Hydroman Sector
 106
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Pro Bono f. Super Slab Sector
 84
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Two Pines c Electric Co. Sector
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Public Service c Electric Co. Sector
 101
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Adopted Son k. Hydroman Sector
 80
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Eminant Domain g. Autumn Arch Sector
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Under Fire c Electric Co. Sector
 79
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Slab Master f. Super Slab Sector
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mental As Anything k. Hydroman Sector
 113
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Safe Harbor Direct c Electric Co. Sector
 117
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Locomotion g. Autumn Arch Sector
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Autumn Arch g. Autumn Arch Sector
 122
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Electric Co. c Electric Co. Sector
 96
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Super Slab f. Super Slab Sector
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hydroman k. Hydroman Sector
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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