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Areas in Safe Harbor South

a. Blood Sugar Magic Sector 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
b. Electric Co. Sector 1 / 15 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 4 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
d. Machismo Sector 1 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
e. Super Slab Sector 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
f. Autumn Arch Sector 0 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
g. The Righteous and the Wicked Sector 0 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
h. Numero Uno Sector 3 / 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
i. Train in Vain Sector 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
j. Hydroman Sector 6 / 13 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Description

Over eighty bolted single pitch sport routes along an abandoned railroad bed, a bit south of Safe Harbor Dam. Many of these have updated stainless steel hardware since their reopening in 2011, while some include 1980's or earlier vintage bolts and cold shuts.

Approaching from south to north, the climbing sectors reached (in order) are: Blood Sugar Magic, Electric Co., Tenuous Odyssey, Machismo, Super Slab, Autumn Arch, the Righteous and the Wicked, Numero Uno, Train in Vain, and Hydroman.

Eric Hörst's Safe Harbor Climbing website has a few mini-guide to climbing the south areas. The area divisions used here are his.

Getting There

From Lancaster, Pennsylvania, take New Danville Pike south to Conestoga (5 miles from Central Park, Lancaster). Turn right on Main Street (3 1/2 miles). When Main Street ends in a T-intersection, turn left of River Road, and you will drive through Safe Harbor Park.

If your party has more than one vehicle, leave them at the park, and carpool from there.

After turning left (south) on River Road at Safe Harbor Park, continue on River Road as it winds back uphill. Turn right on Green Hill Road. At the first four-way intersection, turn left on Brenner Hollow, and then take another immediate right back onto Green Hill. In another mile or so, just before a flower preserve sign, Green Hill turns downhill onto a gravel road and to a tunnel.

Park just before or after the tunnel (remember that everyone has to U-turn and drive out past you). There's enough room for many vehicles to park here.

Check for recent "No parking" signs, in case of recent changes.

A few feet from the northeastern side of the tunnel on Green Hill is the start of an unmarked climber's trail that leads from Green Hill Road to the Enola Low Grade Trail (the rails-to-trails trail). Walk through the woods for 5-10 minutes, mostly uphill, until you emerge from the woods onto the Enola trail, which is 50+ feet wide, completely covered in gravel, and flanked by a line of power lines. Turn right (north) and walk until you see bolts on the wall to your right (about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile).

Warning: If you end up on the lower rail trail, with rails and trains running on it, you're off-route.

117 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Safe Harbor South

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pro Bono
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Eaglet
Trad, Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Public Service
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adopted Son
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under Fire
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slab Master
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mental As Anything
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Safe Harbor Direct
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenuous Odyssey
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Locomotion
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Autumn Arch
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Co.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Super Slab
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hydroman
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wonderama
Sport
Pro Bono e. Super Slab Sector 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Le Eaglet j. Hydroman Sector 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport, TR
Public Service b. Electric Co. Sector 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Adopted Son j. Hydroman Sector 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Under Fire b. Electric Co. Sector 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Slab Master e. Super Slab Sector 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mental As Anything j. Hydroman Sector 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Safe Harbor Direct b. Electric Co. Sector 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Tenuous Odyssey c. Tenuous Odyssey Sector 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Locomotion f. Autumn Arch Sector 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Autumn Arch f. Autumn Arch Sector 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Electric Co. b. Electric Co. Sector 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Super Slab e. Super Slab Sector 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hydroman j. Hydroman Sector 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wonderama f. Autumn Arch Sector 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Safe Harbor South »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
there is literally no shade. so wouldn't recommend on a hot sunny summer day Jun 9, 2016
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
The powerline poles that run along the trail have plates with numbers. The tower closest to the trail to Green Hill Road is T 14. The tower closest to the Port-o-John is T 23.
Mar 28, 2015
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
The following bit of the "Getting There" section is pretty confusing: "On the uphill side of the tunnel off Green Hill Road, follow a side trail uphill next to high tension power lines. It will connect you to the old rail trail (with no rails left) where it crosses over the top of the tunnel."

Here's some clearer directions: A few feet from the northeastern side of the tunnel on Green Hill is the start of an unmarked climber's trail that leads from Green Hill Road to the Enola Low Grade Trail (the rails-to-trails trail). Walk through the woods for 5-10 minutes, mostly uphill, until you emerge from the woods onto the Enola trail, which is 50+ feet wide, completely covered in gravel, and flanked by a line of power lines. Turn right (north) and walk until you see bolts on the wall to your right (about 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile).

Mar 28, 2015
Who would be a contact person in case of an emergency, someone local that can get to the climb site easily? 5 days ago

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