Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Don Gallagher, Hans Herr
Page Views: 7,338 total · 80/month
Shared By: Anthony Nguyen on Nov 21, 2011 with improvements by Climberdude
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

This route is fantastic - varied between the upper and lower halves, long, interesting moves and great stemming! Nice view from the top too.

From the Rock & Ice guide published in issue #51: "Mega-classic corner with great stemming. Beware - A 165-foot [50m] rope is required to lower off this, and adjacent routes!"

Location

Obvious corner a third of the way down the carriage path. Climb #33.

Protection

9 bolts to rings.

Photos

Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.10a
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.10a
This was my first 5.10 about six months into rock climbing. I remember that we didn't have enough draws at the time, so we just used single carabiners on the first three bolts. Dec 7, 2011
Lars Torkelson
Philly, PA
  5.10a/b
Lars Torkelson   Philly, PA
  5.10a/b
This route is fantastic- varied between the upper and lower halves, long, interesting moves and great stemming! Nice view from the top too. BTW I think this has 9 bolts on it... Apr 29, 2012
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
This is such a good climb, I can't wait to climb it again. The bottom is often wet, but it's worth climbin thru it to get to that corner above. Jan 29, 2013
Paul H
Pennsylvania
  5.10
Paul H   Pennsylvania
  5.10
Really fun climb. The bottom is often very wet and can lead to a difficult start depending on the day. Jun 6, 2013
Corey Ptak  
 
Wet in the mornings. Starts to dry out after 12. Best time to climb is around 12:30 so you get the perfect Mount of sin and shade. Also good to climb after 5pm when the shade returns and you can get a nice dry climb in without baking. This route is worth it wet or dry Jul 6, 2014
Gabe Cisneros
Baltimore, md
Gabe Cisneros   Baltimore, md
Just read one of the ticks from December....

Can anyone confirm that the first bolt is indeed missing? Jan 19, 2018
Climberdude
Kraley
  5.9
Climberdude   Kraley
  5.9
First bolt is missing. However someone put a piton in the crack left of where the old bolt was.
Use that until new bolt is installed Jan 29, 2018
Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
I second the Piton... it's hard to see, but there's a good knifeblade piton in the crack about 6 feet below the first bolt. There are numerous jugs on the bottom 4/5 bolts, but they are eternally wet and have slime growing out of them, making the bottom rather technical. Apr 7, 2019