Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,675 total · 43/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Description

Similar to its slabby neighbors, but SHD requires more thinking and delicate balance for some moves. A pleasure to climb.

Apparently, when you hit the crux, if you head Left to the arete the climb is in the 5.7 area, and if you head right and up then traverse back left using the diagonaling crack, it's around 5.8. The true 5.9+ goes straight up the blank face.

Location

Easy to find since "WPS" is spraypainted at the bottom.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors, hardware in good condition.

Photos

Larry S
Easton, PA
 
Larry S   Easton, PA
 
Apparently, when you hit the crux, if you head Left to the arete the climb is in the 5.7 area, and if you head right and up then traverse back left using the diagonaling crack, it's around 5.8. The true 5.9+ goes straight up the blank face. Dec 20, 2011
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
5.7
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
5.7
This really should be listed at a much easier grade. The 5.9 grade is only relevant if you ignore the left hand arete or the good holds out right. Jan 18, 2013
Mike Allegrezza
  5.10a
Mike Allegrezza  
  5.10a
I actually think climbing this crux straight up the face is much harder than the crux of Super Slab. The angle is steeper and there is less friction. And if you blow a move climbing around it using the 5.7 arete or 5.8 right side, be prepared for a swinging whipper. May 18, 2014
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
 
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
 
I would agree with a 5.9 grade if heading straight into the crux. Certainly easier ways around it, nonetheless a fun slab route. Mar 19, 2015
Tim Schafstall  
  5.9
Straight up the slab at the crux is significantly harder than 5.9 At least 5.10a and maybe even 5.10b. Going right is easier, but it can be a reachy clip for some. Seems like 5.8+/5.9 is right for the grade going that way. To reach the alleged 5.7 arĂȘte, you need to do 5.9+/5.10a moves and clip before/while doing so or risk a long (for SH) swinging fall. Great route though. Dec 4, 2017
JSH

JSH    
It's unfortunate that the bolt is where it is, because it creates this "which way is the route?" distraction best described by Tim S.

The rational route is to follow the holds to the right, just the same way you've been zigzagging between holds the whole way up. However, clipping the last bolt is a contrived level of difficult, and a bit dangerous, from that line. Apr 30, 2018