Elevation: 10,000 ft
GPS: 39.254, -106.291 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 24, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is an organizational entry for areas near to Leadville. It's been on my to-do-list for a while.

So, we'll sketch it in...and fill it in later.

This area has a number of crags at a higher altitude, thus many will be difficult to climb during the colder months.

Nearby crags in the area include: Bob's Rock near Buena Vista, Camp Hale (closer to Redcliff), Cecilville Slab, Dump Wall, Finback, Gilman, Granite area, Homestake Reservervoir (closer to Redcliff), Klettergarden (closer to Redcliff), Monitor Rock (in the Independence Pass section), Pyramid, Sawatch, and Weston.

The demarcations for these areas are a bit blurry, since Independence Pass, Vail, and Eagle are "relatively" close. We have to draw the lines somewhere.

As a Leadville climber notes, the immediate Leadville area has a slight dearth of noteworthy climbing crags which may explain its relative lack of a climbing community.

Getting There

Some will get to Leadville via US 24 from I-70 if you come from the west. Others may access Leadville from the north and east via CO 91 from I-70. Those coming from the south will access it off US 24.

Leadville climbing website

Guidebooks

There is a guidebook for Camp Hale called Camp Hale Rock Climbing by Bob & Carrie Robertson. It covers 11 crags and 69 routes from 5.5 to 5.12. 56 are sport routes (down to 5.6), 3 are trad routes (5.8-5.9), and 10 are TRs (all but one are 5.6 or less). Most of the climbing is sport routes under 5.10.

There is a new guidebook 40 Minutes from Leadville: Notes on Rock Climbs Near Leadville, CO by Justin Talbot for the Leadville area.

62 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Leadville Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Leadville

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Monumental Experience
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Up The Other
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Taliban Blues
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Warrior's Wail
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Blue Bells
Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Straight Through The Gates of Hell
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Paintbrush
Trad, Alpine
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Currant ArĂȘte
Sport, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
They Call Me Mr. Grease
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
She'll Pack It
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
The Gold Card Indirect
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Columbine Calling
Trad, Alpine
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
The Hammer
Trad, Alpine
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Warrior's Tears
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Burning Bright
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Monumental Experience Camp Hale > Paramount Pinnacle
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Up The Other Camp Hale > Paramount Pinnacle
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Taliban Blues Hell's Gate/ Ha… > Slab from Hell
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Warrior's Wail Camp Hale > Warrior's Wall
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Blue Bells Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Left Side
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Straight Through The Gates… Hell's Gate/ Ha… > Slab from Hell
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Paintbrush Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Left Side
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
Currant ArĂȘte Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Left Side
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
They Call Me Mr. Grease Camp Hale > Warrior's Wall
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
She'll Pack It Camp Hale > Mule Train Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Gold Card Indirect Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Main Wall
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
Columbine Calling Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Left Side
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
The Hammer Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Stripes Wall
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
Warrior's Tears Camp Hale > Warrior's Wall
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Burning Bright Timberline Lake… > Tiger Cliff > Stripes Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Leadville »

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Photos

maryjax
golden
maryjax   golden
Hi,
Does anyone out there have any info on the routes at Homestake Creek in the Holy Cross Wilderness area? Is there a guidebook for this area?
Any info before next weekend would be great!
Thanks. Aug 4, 2007
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
I've got the old Rock & Ice that lists routes for Homestake. I'll pull it out. If I recall it's from the mid-90s(?) and it's the kind of thing you don't see anymore. Great crag. I did a bunch of my early climbing there. Apr 29, 2009
AEdwards Edwards
Durango, Colorado
AEdwards Edwards   Durango, Colorado
Great resource for Leadville climbing!
www.40minutesfromleadville.com Mar 24, 2014
Scheid
Vail, CO
Scheid   Vail, CO
Most of the routes filed here are basically in Red Cliff. Why did they get moved here from the Eagle County area? May 27, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Schneid, a MP.com user suggested a reorganization. These various crags were scattered and less organized. So, it seemed to make sense to do as this user suggested. Certainly there are plenty of ways to organize crags. This one just seemed an improvement compared to what we had previously. May 31, 2014
The new Leadville Area Guidebook is available at Ledville Outdoors, Melanzana, Community Threads, The Trailhead (in BV), and Neptune Mountaineering.

To order online and checkout a preview go to:
blurb.com/b/6246553-40-minu… Jun 18, 2015