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Areas in Finback Crags

Emperor Wall, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Fortress, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Pyramid, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 12,000 ft
GPS: 39.199, -106.191 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,258 total · 66/month
Shared By: Justin Talbot on Jul 2, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Situated at 12,000’ on the north side of Finback Knob in the Mosquito Range, these cliffs offer a good escape from the mid-summer heat of Leadville. The cliffs on Finback are up to 250’ high and have a great alpine crag feel, perched above a stream and waterfall in the valley below. The routes here have been established over the last few summers, and care has been taken to make high quality anchors and judicious bolt placements. While few of the routes feel like sport climbs, most can be reasonably protected; at least a little loose rock exists on all climbs.

Getting There

-A Subaru Outback or other high clearance vehicle is recommended.

-Follow County Road 2 (California Gulch Rd, paved) until you reach CR 6 (right at “Route of the Silver Kings” sign, the dirt road over Long and Derry).

-Take CR 6 over Long and Derry, and 1/2 a mile past the large State Division of Wildlife signs, take the left road at the junction with a small house-shaped sign on a tree (left arrow on sign).

-Follow this narrow road until you reach a T-Junction and an old metal boiler in the bottom of Empire Gulch.

-Take a left up a rough road and park on the side of the road after driving about ½ a mile (at the end of a large clearing). The total drive time from Leadville is 30 minutes.

-Hike up the road and a discontinuous trail for 2 miles (50 minutes), and then hike straight up to the cliffs staying out of the loose boulderfields as much as possible.

9 Total Climbs

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Photos

Definitely a good place to wear a helmet, while belaying as well as climbing, and beware of seemingly solid blocks and horns that might break without warning. (We pulled off two large blocks on the Pyramid.) That said, this is a very cool area with challenging climbs in a gorgeous valley. Thanks to everyone involved with developing this unique alpine cragging. Jul 5, 2015

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