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Routes in Slab from Hell

No Name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Straight Through The Gates of Hell T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Taliban Blues T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Patrick Seurynck, Ralph Mitchell
Page Views: 2,747 total, 24/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

P1. Climb up the slab to the first bolt, make a long, awkward move to the flake on the left and then follow bolts up to the crack. Follow the nice splitter (might be some vegetation in spots, as it doesn't see much traffic) as it widens from fingers to fists. Best to move up past the first anchor to the next anchor 20' higher.

P2. Follow the bolts up the edge of the face. The exposure in spots is excellent, as the formation drops steeply into the gully on your right. Stop at the obviously belay anchor, or link with the next pitch for a 200' monster.

P3. Follow more bolts up as the rock gets steeper, working whichever side appeals to you. Really nice climbing.

Descent:

Make 2 single rope raps back to the higher belay anchor at the top of the first pitch. From here, a 70m cord will get you to the bottom if you head down in the right spot, otherwise move to the lower anchor. With a 60m, you SHOULD be able to reach the ground from the lower anchor, but may have to rap into the gully on climber's right instead, make sure to pay attention while you rap.

Location

Follow the trail/talus up to the obvious large slab, the route starts on the right side of the formation, the first bolt should be obvious, just down and right of a large, pointy flake.

Protection

Take 12 quickdraws and a single set of cams from fingers to fists, if you want to sew up the crack.
I had a fixed rope on part of the second pitch which allowed me to rope solo the more difficult lines on the East face. It was removed along with 4-5 carabiners last weekend. It would be awesome to get that stuff back! Jun 8, 2015
Cameron Turner
Eagle
  5.9-
Cameron Turner   Eagle
  5.9-
A great fun route, all the info on draws and cams is correct. Climbed it with a 70 m rope and still did the 3 raps. Jun 25, 2014
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
Great job putting up this route! Took my wife up it, what a solid line in a spectacular setting. Seeing that I don't climb low-angle slab ever, I was pretty darn grateful for the time and expense that went into safely bolting this line.

Truly 0.4, 0.5, 1, and 2 will SEW the crack. Leave cams at top of p1 and grab on the way down. Rapping to first p1 anchors from p2 won't work even w 70 w/o a touch of shenanigans - knot those ends and be careful.... Jul 28, 2013
Lots of draws, 0.4 or 0.5, and 0.75 and #2 is plenty for the crack. Jul 14, 2011