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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Description

This is the strata 2 layers behind Pulpit Rock. It is rather much broader than tall. From the parking area, the upper left face appears quite smooth and less featured. The left edge and top of this rock are on the skyline from the parking area. There is a somewhat clogged slope behind this strata. To descend off the top of the left side, we slung a decent-sized horn and rapped 30' off a biner. Given the lack of an obvious downclimb or scramble off, this side of the rock appears to have been unclimbed or at least previously unsummited.

The right side has been explored a bit. Someone has a 2 bolt anchor above a lone protection bolt on the face. There are at least 6 other lines up there. You can make a circuitous ascent in excess of 600' of climbing here. To descend the right side from its top, you scramble down a gully off the summit and skirt a tower on its west and north sides down to hiking terrain. You can also rappel off 2 bare bolts & hangers ~85' up or rappel off a natural thread ~190' up.

Note, in early season, the cave up at mid-height can have ice making A Way To The Top difficult to ascend.

Finally, this area can have ticks in the spring. Do your tick checks.

L->R:

Left Side

A. Grits 'n' Gravy, 10+, 1p, bolt(s) & gear, 130'.
B. Crystal Overpass, 7 R, 2p, gear.
C. Crystal Highway, 7 PG-13, 3p, gear, 340'.

Right Side

DE. Vegan, 6 PG-13, 1p, 160', gear.
E. Grits with Eggs Over-Easy, 8+ PG-13, 2p, 200', gear.
F1. A Way To The Top, 8- T1, 3p, 450', gear.
F2. Is This Your Crack?, 7, 1p, 120' or 190', gear.
above F2. March Madness, 8+, 3p, 350', gear.
G. Face With Bolt Route, 11+, 1p, 80', bolt & gear.
H. Step Up Or Step Aside, 10+, 1p, 115' or 150', bolts & gear.
above H. Crack, project.
Details

Getting There

Go east past the Lumpy Ridge trailhead, go northward on a dirt road to the small (14 car?) parking area perhaps 2 miles in. Head north from the McGraw Ranch trailhead onto National Forest land. There is a cairned trail once you get 150 yards from the barn. Go up and left to the base of the rock we're calling First Pew. You can climb Features on a Slabscape and link it to a route on this rock or you can skirt around the base of First Pew and gain the gully between First Pew and Second Pew.

Land Management

This crag appears to be on Comanche Wilderness land, so power drills are not allowed. Also, they prefer camoflauged hangers.

Cell phone reception

From some checking, it seems you can get a Verizon signal here, but you can't get a AT&T or Cricket signal here.

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