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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Deb Thompson and L. Paik
Page Views: 51 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details

Description

This is a climb that is far better featured than it appears from a distance, thus significantly reducing its difficulty. There is some really nice, low-end to moderate climbing that makes this fun. In some places it reminds you of some of the better rock in Big Thompson Canyon, like Jug Dome, or a fresher Combat Rock.

P1. Start in a left-facing offwidth (crux) with limited pro. Aim for a crack above. Connect this to the obvious, big, right-facing dihedral that protects with far smaller pro than you might guess. Cruise up on fun quartz crystals to the top of the dihedral. 5.6 PG-13, 110'.

P2. Angle up and right, connecting various features on far-easier-than-it-looks terrain with great knobs. Continue up to a near-horizontal section to the base of the top block of the crag under an appealing offwidth, 170', 5.4 PG-13.

P3. Move up into the offwidth. There is a block that appears more hazardous than it is. Move up using face features around the crack. Pass a cool handle feature of rock to the bathtub belay on top. 5.7, 60'.

To descend, move east and down to a stance with a sling around a horn with a biner. Rappel 30'. Walkoff to the north and down the backside of the Second Pew. There is once exposed section to down-scramble.

Location

This basically climbs the right side of the nose-like feature on the left side of this rock.

Protection

A single rack up to a #3.5 Camalot.

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