Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: a chipmunk
Page Views: 557 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This line ascends obvious features on its way to the top of the right side of this formation. It may have been ascended by someone previously.

P1. Start up below the left side of the smooth face on the far right side of the formation. Scramble up to a scoop/shelf down and right of a short crack dihedral. Fire up the crack, traverse left past a dark crack and a big, grassy groove. Find a left-angling dihedral that has a low crux. Follow it up to a large belay ledge in a huge cavity below a chimney. There is a big natural thread that can be used for an anchor with a 48", non-sewn sling. 5.8-, 190'.

P2. Go into the cave/cavity, move up into the slot using a long sling and a fiddly #1 Camalot. This sort of reminds you of the Honeymoon Chimney on The Priest. If you are skinny, you can wriggle up through a tunnel once up. Go up a crack and slab to a tree. If not, you can skirt the big chockstone out to the edge and around onto 3rd class terrain. Belay short if you choose this option, as the rope drag will likely suck. 5.7, 50-100'.

P3. There are probably at least 3 ways around this next bit. We chose the inviting but tricky slab just left of a tree. To ignore the tree, this is probably 5.11 with a #0.1 Camalot a few moves up. To use the tree, it probably gets a T1 rating. Continue up above on easy terrain to the summit. 5.8 T1 or 5.11, 160-200'.

To descend, go down a brushy gully with a large, dead tree in it. Once at the saddle, go around the spire on its west and then north sides to gain hiking terrain to the east. Follow this down to your packs.

Location Suggest change

This is on the right side of the Second Pew. Approach as for the right side of Pulpit Rock. Skirt its right/eastern edge and go up to the obvious rock with grooves, chimneys, and a smooth right face.

Protection Suggest change

Rack to a #3.5 Camalot, 60m rope(s).