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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 65 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Details

Description

This is a low end, fun route that can gain the big ledge in the cave or the 2 bolt anchor of the bolted face route. It is much more fun that you might guess based on a look from below. There's a decent chance it has been climbed by a human before. Chipmunks dance up and down it.

Scamper up low angle slabs just below the left edge of the smooth face. Climb a short crack / dihedral to a ledge. Head up and right up a crack / dihedral with a bit of dark lichen. Partway up, the holds draw you left of the crack, and then they draw you to the right of the crack. If you go to the 2 bolt anchor to the right, then make a traverse ~100' up. If you go to the big ledge in the cave, angle up and left on easy but a bit runout terrain.

You can rap 80' from the 2 bolt anchor or do a rap off a 96" (48" looped) thread at the base of the cave. It would be ~180' rappel to the ground. You can also continue up to the top of the formation as for A Way To The Top.

Location

This starts up low angle slabs just below the left edge of the smooth face.

Protection

Wireds, cams to a #1 Camalot.

Photos

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