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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 115 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, George Bracksieck, Jay Detweiler, LP
Page Views: 62 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 19, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Details

Description

This is an enticing line where the upper 3/4's of it goes free and clean at ~5.10- and the lowest part goes at ~5.10+.

Originally, we climbed this upper part from the belay for P1 of A Way To The Top. It has some nice crack moves, some nice bulge moves, but the face below the 1st overlap goes clean at 5.10 (for the left and right starts) to 10+ with a couple crux mantles. The middle start is the crux which is protected by 4 bolts drilled by hand. The left start is a bit easier and a right start is a bit fragile. The crack has a nice variety of movement. Once you finish the crack, a leftward traverse, either foot traverse or hand traverse, under a huge, detached block (don't touch it) gains you the 2 bolt anchor for a line (115') to the left and continuing left, you can the belay in the cavity (150').

This may be the best line at the Pulpit Massif.

For the adventurous, you could try that crack above, but watch out for big, loose blocks.

Location

This is on the right side of the Second Pew of Pulpit Rock. It goes to an obvious, thin crack above a bulge ~35-40 feet up.

Protection

Bring wires and cams to a #3 Camalot, and 4 quickdraws to start.

Photos

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