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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Deb Thompson, Jackie Paik, Kira Paik
Page Views: 225 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Details

Description

This is a line that continues above Is This Your Crack? or Vegan and heads to the top of the Second Pew. It takes on the dihedral to the right of the obvious cave (which was a mixed climb in late March) at mid-height on the right side of the Second Pew. The 1st pitch of this is worth the effort. The section above this weaves around to avoid some weirdness, but it could be straightened out.

P1. To make this a longer adventure, you can start with Grits with Eggs Over-Easy or you can start on Vegan.

P2. You can continue up or even start with Is This Your Crack?. You can belay below the cave or even the 2 bolt anchor above Face with Bolt Route.

P3. This was climbed from the cave with a ~20 foot downclimb to a traverse right to the start of the dihedral. Pull aboard on nice crystalline jugs. Move up the dihedral into the slot/chimney. There is a crux move about mid-pitch where remembering to chimney may make it feel more secure. Near the top of the slot/chimney, you can move right onto big knobs. 5.8+, 100' or 150'.

P4. You are now in a sort of bouldery meadow. The 1st two forays attempted to move straight up to the obvious wide crack with a leaning squeeze chimney or boulder hop a bit to the right that was thwarted by a V-shaped crevasse without great pro or holds. Ultimately the wide crack was attained with a walk left to a short wall left of a big tree and a traverse back right a few feet below the tree to gain the wide crack. 5.6 PG-13, 100'.

P5. You can place a #3 Friend or #2 Camalot in the narrower slot next to the wide crack. A barn-door move up and onto face holds makes quick work of the crack. You would need something like a #6 Camalot if you actually wanted to protect this section. Continue up 4th / low-end 5th class that becomes 3rd class terrain (shared with A Way To The Top) to the top of the Second Pew. 5.6, 150'.

To descend, there is a ~75' downscramble that can be more interesting if there is snow. Once onto the gap between the Second and Third Pews, it's best to drop maybe ~75' down to get around to the north of the pinnacle between the Pews. Then, it's hiking from the saddle down to the packs.

Part of why this was named as such was the mad weather we experienced: snow, then sunshine, then sprinkles of rain, a couple of rainbows, then sunshine, then blowing snow, and then sunshine.

Location

This ascends the dihedral right of the cave ~200' from the nadir of the right side of the Second Pew. It connects to an obvious, wide crack to the right of a decent-sized tree.

Protection

This was done with a rack to a #3.5 Camalot, although, P5 would require something big if you wanted to protect the wide crack bit.

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