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Routes in Second Pew

A Way To The Top T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crystal Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crystal Overpass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face With Bolt Route T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grits 'n' Gravy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grits with Eggs Over-Easy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Is This Your Crack? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
March Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up Or Step Aside T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vegan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Leo Paik and George Bracksieck
Page Views: 50 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Nov 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Details

Description

On Oct. 30, 2012, I climbed from the low point of the Second Pew up the slab, with no pro until I could sling a small (but not tiny) tree. I moved rightish to a left-facing flake system that diagonals left. I gingerly liebacked and stemmed up this flake system, being careful with fragile rock (5.8+). At the top of the lieback, I threw a double-length sling behind a tiny shrub/tree (the most solid pro since the tree), then climbed up and leftish, past some loose blocks. I reached an alcove above a big bush and slung a couple of blocks for anchorage. Above lay the lichened crack of Is this Your Crack?

On the second pitch, Leo traversed left to a short chimney and followed it straight up to a nice dihedral/groove. Excellent face climbing was found on the face right of the groove. At its top, you may follow A Way to the Top, or traverse straight right (5.7) to a two bolt anchor atop Face with Bolt. Pro opportunities were merely occasional. The second pitch could be approached by other ways.

Location

Start at the low point of the right side of the Second Pew.

Protection

SR through #3 Camalot. Leo placed a funky #3 1/2 Camalot on the p.2 traverse. A # 8, 9 or 10 Hex MAY work there. Or maybe a funky #4 C4.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Shucks, it was George's call. Dec 16, 2012
wroy  
I see y'all are getting with the southern theme. Dec 14, 2012