Mill Creek Dome Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 9,000 ft | 2,743 m |
GPS: |
39.7846, -105.622 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 20,703 total · 129/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2011 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is the large granite dome uphill from the Mill Creek Crags. It presently holds thirteen routes, five that are mixed trad and modern. The Marga routes were originally intended as a single two pitch route but are listed separately due largely to their complete divergence in character. The granite on the MCD is largely excellent, highly featured, and bulletproof. The two routes in the large alcove Sadhaka Yogi and Yogi's Choice get good morning sun and pick up shade after 1:00pm or so. Expect hard climbing for both of these routes at some point. As of mid-June 2011, most things have gone down, but the MargaUgra pitch which seems quite hard and is an open project. Overall, climbing at the Mill Creek Dome is solid, interesting, and provides a good opportunity when the temps on the Front Range are getting unbearable. MCD typically runs 15 - 20 degrees cooler than Golden, Clear Creek, or Boulder. In addition, the MCD is almost tick-free.
L->R:
A. Fractals, 9-, 2p, 180', bolts.
BA. Fractals Variation, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
B. Features On a Landscape, 10, 3p, 250', bolts.
C. Power Shot, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
D. The Power Stripper, 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
E. Sadkha Yogi , 12, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Yogi's Choice, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
G. How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ?, 12, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
H. Project, 1p, bolts.
I. Cross Cut, 11, 2p, 140', bolts & gear.
J. Marga Sukha, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
above J. MargaUgra, (5.12/A0)/Pegarlo, 12 A0 or 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
K1. Ram, 12, 1p, 110', bolts & gear.
K2. Sita, 11, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
L->R:
A. Fractals, 9-, 2p, 180', bolts.
BA. Fractals Variation, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
B. Features On a Landscape, 10, 3p, 250', bolts.
C. Power Shot, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
D. The Power Stripper, 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
E. Sadkha Yogi , 12, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Yogi's Choice, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
G. How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ?, 12, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
H. Project, 1p, bolts.
I. Cross Cut, 11, 2p, 140', bolts & gear.
J. Marga Sukha, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
above J. MargaUgra, (5.12/A0)/Pegarlo, 12 A0 or 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.
K1. Ram, 12, 1p, 110', bolts & gear.
K2. Sita, 11, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
Getting There
From Dumont, take the Mill Creek Road, Road 261, exactly 1.9 miles North from the post office. There is a tiny parking space on the downhill side of the road, just across from the Forest Access sign. Alternatively, you can park 100 feet uphill, just across from the Mill Creek Crags. A well-cairned trail starts just across from the parking space at a tree stump. Please be careful of the dry terrain; it is very sensitive to our walking on it.
Caring for our crag
This crag has turned into a destination for many out of town people and as many as 5 or 6 parties climbing are there at a time, especially weekends. As you would expect when this happens, there are those that respect the natural environment and those who are oblivious or even abuse it. Now that Dumont has become popular; we have also the consequences of popularity, "people".
Let's, as climbers and stewards of our beloved environment, respect our land so we can all have a good experience here. People and climbers bring their dogs, the dogs run around, and many are uncontrolled. Also, we find dog and human poop near and even on the trails and at the base of the climbs. The crag is on National Forest land. Please "take out with you what you brought, clean up after your dog, clean up after yourself (including toilet paper), etc. Let's be people who are courteous to each other. In other words, "please leave as little trace of your presence as possible."
Let's, as climbers and stewards of our beloved environment, respect our land so we can all have a good experience here. People and climbers bring their dogs, the dogs run around, and many are uncontrolled. Also, we find dog and human poop near and even on the trails and at the base of the climbs. The crag is on National Forest land. Please "take out with you what you brought, clean up after your dog, clean up after yourself (including toilet paper), etc. Let's be people who are courteous to each other. In other words, "please leave as little trace of your presence as possible."
Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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