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Routes in Mill Creek Dome

Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 39.785, -105.622 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,941 total, 79/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the large granite dome uphill from the Mill Creek Crags. It presently holds thirteen routes, five that are mixed trad and modern. The Marga routes were originally intended as a single two pitch route but are listed separately due largely to their complete divergence in character. The granite on the MCD is largely excellent, highly featured, and bulletproof. The two routes in the large alcove Sadhaka Yogi and Yogi's Choice get good morning sun and pick up shade after 1:00pm or so. Expect hard climbing for both of these routes at some point. As of mid-June 2011, most things have gone down, but the MargaUgra pitch which seems quite hard and is an open project. Overall, climbing at the Mill Creek Dome is solid, interesting, and provides a good opportunity when the temps on the Front Range are getting unbearable. MCD typically runs 15 - 20 degrees cooler than Golden, Clear Creek, or Boulder. In addition, the MCD is almost tick-free.

L->R:

A. Fractals, 9-, 2p, 180', bolts.
BA. Fractals Variation, 10, 1p, 110', bolts.
B. Features On a Landscape, 10, 3p, 250', bolts.
C. Power Shot, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
D. The Power Stripper, 12, 1p, 90', bolts & gear.
E. Sadkha Yogi , 12, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Yogi's Choice, 11+, 1p, gear & bolts.
G. How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ?, 12, 1p, 120', gear & bolts.
H. Project, 1p, bolts.
I. Cross Cut, 11, 2p, 140', bolts & gear.
J. Marga Sukha, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
above J. MargaUgra, (5.12/A0), 12 A0, 1p, 60', bolts.
K1. Ram, 12, 1p, 110', bolts & gear.
K2. Sita, 11, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.

Getting There

From Dumont, take the Mill Creek Road, Road 261, exactly 1.9 miles North from the post office. There is a tiny parking space on the downhill side of the road, just across from the Forest Access sign. Alternatively, you can park 100 feet uphill, just across from the Mill Creek Crags. A well-cairned trail starts just across from the parking space at a tree stump. Please be careful of the dry terrain; it is very sensitive to our walking on it.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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Precip
 
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Up at MCD Friday afternoon, 100F in Golden and a cool 80F at the Dome, with shade we climbed until nearly 9:00 when temps climbed down to 65F-70F. Jun 23, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Zowie!!! Lethal block was removed from route "G" after some serious inverted reefing-madness. This seems to make the whole place feel safer. The route has been bolted to the ground, although it requires several cam placements. Climbing above the slab is radical and continuous. A fixed rope is presently on the climb, but anyone wishing to give it whirl is welcome to do so. Just move the rope aside and reclip the roof when finished. Present plan for a name is "How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean". If you look at the upper section in the photo, a "?" formed naturally by the lichen growth is clearly evident - I didn't create it! Hence the route name. May 1, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
NB: 3/20/2012 - several new routes have been added that are fine to climb with the exception of the route labeled "G" in the photo. This has been top-roped through the overhang. But (!!!!!!), the hanging block clearly evident from the ground is potentially lethal. Just leave this line alone until I have removed the block. I don't see any reason that it will fall on its own, but it should not be climbed on. Mar 22, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
November 12 & 13 massive winds blew through the Mill Creek Canyon killing power to some homes and toppling numerous trees on the approach to MCD. Some of the trees had 2 and 3 foot diameters - looks like the aftermath of a major hurricane. Nov 14, 2011

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