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Routes in Mill Creek Dome

Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: RMWright, Fall 2012
Page Views: 574 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 22, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

TPS begins in the cave just adjacent to Power Shot and angles right up a deceptive slab before turning a corner and firing straight to the anchor. Don't be fooled. The slab is much trickier than it looks. Turning the corner is one crux, and the route remains continuously devious and powerful right up to the last bolt. The corner above can be protected by Friends or Camalots and takes bomb-proof gear. The rock quality is excellent from start to finish. I think that TPS comes in at 5.12, but it has taken me a lot of tries to suss out solutions to each crux. Maybe I'm just getting old. This is an excellent climb well worth four stars.

Location

This is between Power Shot and Sadhaka Yogi.

Protection

One dozen draws and several camming devices spanning a range of 0.5 to 2.5 inches. I used four cams in final corner, but you can get by with fewer. Double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12
For the entry move, we thought it was easier to start right of the first bolt and traverse left on big holds with heel hooks to the pull over... pulling around the corner is heady! Jul 14, 2016
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Beta note: the entry move and the slab are tricky. We found that standing straight up and a bit left of the first clip and then hand traversing right seemed to work okay. The bolts on the slab are placed a bit below and right of the climbing, which is unnerving at first. This allows the rope to run clean around the corner at clip five. After that, it's a pretty straight shot to the anchor. Aug 22, 2012

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