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Routes in Mill Creek Dome

Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, Spring 2012
Page Views: 283 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

PS comes out of the cave 30 feet right of FOAL and can be done as a single 90ft pitch or linked up with P2 of FOAL. Originally it seemed pretty hard, but in running it on RP, it seemed to land somewhere in the 5.11 domain. Sprint up on mostly big jugs in very steep terrain for 40 feet. I thought the crux was pulling past the fourth clip, which felt pretty commiting at this angle and catches you at the same time the flash pump hits. There is another crux pulling over the roof, but this is super well protected. This lower section reminded me of Rifle for the angle and the jugs. The slab after the roof comes in at 5.9 and has a couple neat moves that keep you thinking. It is possible to climb FOAL and place the draws on PS on the way down.

For the sake of running the rope past the roof and up the slab, it seemed like a good idea to have the belayer unclip the first bolt. PS starts with a traverse that could set up rope drag once on the slab above.

Location

It starts in the overhanging cave 30 feet right of FOAL.

Protection

Eleven QDs and a 60 meter rope. The double bolt anchor is shared with P1 of FOAL. We found that a blue LinkCam was a comforting addition between bolts 4 and 5 that made things a lot less spooky.

Photos

Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11b/c
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11b/c
Truly a quality climb, one of the best of its grade west of Denver. Going by the standards Richard set, it climbs like a 5.11b or c. It's a power route compared to Sweat Petit, 5.11d. Don't be fooled by the roof, there is an easy way out. Sep 26, 2016
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11c
This is a really fun route for the grade. Definitely doesn't need any gear to supplement the bolts, it's well-protected without. The note about gear is a little confusing anywaym since there's no such thing as a blue Link Cam, assuming you're talking about Omega Pacific Link Cams? Aug 14, 2016