Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: RMWright, Dr. ABS, Spring 2012
Page Views: 398 total · 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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PS comes out of the cave 30 feet right of FOAL and can be done as a single 90ft pitch or linked up with P2 of FOAL. Originally it seemed pretty hard, but in running it on RP, it seemed to land somewhere in the 5.11 domain. Sprint up on mostly big jugs in very steep terrain for 40 feet. I thought the crux was pulling past the fourth clip, which felt pretty commiting at this angle and catches you at the same time the flash pump hits. There is another crux pulling over the roof, but this is super well protected. This lower section reminded me of Rifle for the angle and the jugs. The slab after the roof comes in at 5.9 and has a couple neat moves that keep you thinking. It is possible to climb FOAL and place the draws on PS on the way down.

For the sake of running the rope past the roof and up the slab, it seemed like a good idea to have the belayer unclip the first bolt. PS starts with a traverse that could set up rope drag once on the slab above.


It starts in the overhanging cave 30 feet right of FOAL.


Eleven QDs and a 60 meter rope. The double bolt anchor is shared with P1 of FOAL. We found that a blue LinkCam was a comforting addition between bolts 4 and 5 that made things a lot less spooky.


Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
This is a really fun route for the grade. Definitely doesn't need any gear to supplement the bolts, it's well-protected without. The note about gear is a little confusing anywaym since there's no such thing as a blue Link Cam, assuming you're talking about Omega Pacific Link Cams? Aug 14, 2016
Harald Harb
Harald Harb   Dumont
Truly a quality climb, one of the best of its grade west of Denver. Going by the standards Richard set, it climbs like a 5.11b or c. It's a power route compared to Sweat Petit, 5.11d. Don't be fooled by the roof, there is an easy way out. Sep 26, 2016