Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mill Creek Dome

Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: RMWright, Fall 2011
Page Views: 455 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin in the corner of the white alcove. Most of this route is protected with cams. A bolt was placed low where the flakes are very wide. The headwall guarding the anchors is bolted. This excellent route starts out easy and just gets more and more difficult as one approaches the anchor. The lower section is just terrific climbing on a well featured system of flakes, cracks, and slots. The bolt at 60 feet protects the first really hard layback. You will need one or two more cams just above this move which is solid at 5.11+. The headwall above dodges the bird dung on the right, stays well left of this, but has at least four 5.11+ moves in a row, at least the way I did it. You may be able to cut left to the arete early and skim off a wee bit of difficulty. The lower section is super fun and never harder than 5.9 until you reach the bolt at 60 feet.

Location

This is the right hand route in the MCD alcove, it starts below the roof system.

Protection

Full rack of cams, half a dozen quickdraws, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.12a/b
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.12a/b
Be prepared to climb hard and sustained 5.11d and 12a/b moves to get to the anchors on this climb. We found a "leaver carabiner" on the lower part of the white face, section, before the first really hard crux. A right-leaning, flared crack layback. You have to get two pieces in the flaring crack on the way to the next hanger, these are 5.12 moves. I had to throw a dyno move to insert the cam high enough. Richard must have been in tip top shape when he redpointed this climb. It's much more difficult than "Sweet Petite" 5-11d or Full Power, on the Randle Wall, which is also 5.11d. So be prepared for a real test including trad placements for the way this climb is graded. Jul 17, 2017