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Routes in Mill Creek Dome

Cross Cut T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Features on a Landscape S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fractals S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fractals Variation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
MargaSukha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Power Shot S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Stripper, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ram T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sita T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yogi's Choice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: RMWright
Page Views: 977 total, 14/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 30, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Sometimes, regardless of how difficult a route is, one climbs stuff just because the features beckon. FOAL is chock full of such nifty features.

P1: 5.10, 90 feet. Begin on the ledge left of SY. There is a double bolt anchor for the starting belay. Most of the climbing is not harder than 5.9, but a harder move may be needed for the height dis-advantaged. It is roughly 5.10 for the start, which begins on typical jugs. It is 5.10 again standing above the second clip. Angle right and up to a double bolt anchor. Some cool position and some huge jugs are found on the way. For kicks, you can top-rope the overhangs below.

P2: 5.8, 80 feet. Romp up on massive features. It is roughly 5.8 and bolted (!!).

P3: A 50 foot third class walkoff right that will take protection if you choose to stay roped up. There is a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is left of the main alcove, and 50 feet from SY. From the top of P3, there is a well-cairned walk-off that runs North and then South around the crag to drop you in the main alcove.

Protection

P1: 10 quickdraws; P2: 8 quickdraws; P3: 3rd class walkoff, but if you choose to remain roped up, there are several places for mid-range camming units. The top of each pitch has a double bolt belay anchor. A 60 meter rope is recommended if you intend to rap.

Eds. the raps are 75 and 80 feet each.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
That would probably be better, but if you made it up P1, you can probably lead 5.8. Thanks! Apr 30, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Leo, I can switch P2 to 5.8 if you feel that is more accurate. Apr 28, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
This is a nice route. The crux utilizes a hidden pocket left of the obvious rest between bolts 1 & 2. Thanks, Richard! Apr 25, 2012