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Elevation: 5,765 ft 1,757 m
GPS: 51.1768, -115.6965
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Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry
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Description Suggest change

Mt. Cory has maybe the best limestone (quality wise) in the whole Banff area for multipitch climbing. Why this has happened is due to the glacier melt that carved most of the water polished slabs of Cory to a beautiful, solid slab. Most climbs are very sticky still, as the wind erodes the limestone quickly to a prickly pear type of rock with some very sharp jugs and corners.

Mt. Cory is a huge mountain and has several approaches. See within the area descriptions to find the proper approach beta as not all trails connect to each other.

Most climbs are found from a pull out which is before (approaching from Canmore/Calgary) a split in the road at about 3km after the Cave and Basin or Johnston Canyon turn off. The parking lot is on the south side (left, towards Banff) which is also a lookout. A faint trail leads you up to the 'Take it for Granite' area and others.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the exit for Johnston Canyon and Cave and Basin, both which are not found on Mt. Cory. Take the highway for about 3km (a bit less) and before a split to a huge (see: not a pull out but an actual parking lot) parking lot on the left side.

The split means you have gone too far for the Take it for Granite area.

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15 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt. Cory Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Cory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4-
 8
● Main Curtain
Sport, TR, Ice
Bear Spirit
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 123
● Aftonroe
Sport 8 pitches
Take it for Granite
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
● Cheese Grater
Sport 4 pitches
Take it for Granite
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● For Sure
Sport
Take it for Granite
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
● Hoka Hey!
Trad 9 pitches
S Peak
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
● The Wanderer
Sport 5 pitches
Guide's Rock
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
● Three Roofs
Trad 5 pitches
Guide's Rock
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
● Take It or Leave It
Sport
Take it for Granite
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
● Sea of Dreams
Sport 6 pitches
Guide's Rock
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Main Curtain Bear Spirit
 8
WI4- Sport, TR, Ice
● Aftonroe Take it for Granite
 123
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 8 pitches
● Cheese Grater Take it for Granite
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
● For Sure Take it for Granite
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Hoka Hey! S Peak
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 9 pitches
● The Wanderer Guide's Rock
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
● Three Roofs Guide's Rock
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
● Take It or Leave It Take it for Granite
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● Sea of Dreams Guide's Rock
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Cory »

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Mt. Cory with Cory's Groove area shown
Mt. Cory with Cory's Groove area shown
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