Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Peak

Hoka Hey! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 1350 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Banff Climbers Club, 2014
Page Views: 2,410 total · 105/month
Shared By: Brad Warne on Jun 2, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route

5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is a great new addition to the cliff. It is a moderate, well protected route that will inevitably become popular. It is very well protected and very well thought out. Im making the assumption (I could be wrong) that the route was put up by guides for guiding, and thus has protection to avoid things such as rock fall by ropes, rope drag and falls on traverses. The route Im sure will get bad press about too many bolts by some. The route could be climbed on gear, but would be not nearly as enjoyable. If you want this type of climbing (particularly pitch 3) without the bolts, then go to Yam where you can find boat loads of 5.8 cracks with a bolder feel. That said, if the route does become really popular, I can see pitch 3 becoming polished and thus harder.
For a more in depth description of the approach and route see the report by Mark Klassen here:…

Route length 410m, 9 Pitches

1: 50m, 5.6. Climb the left leaning ramp passing bolts and gear placements along the way.

2: 20m, 5.6. Continue up and left in a waterworn groove using bolts and gear. If using a 60m rope, pitches 1 and 2 can be combined a with a little simul-climbing.

3: 55m, 5.8+. Climb the long and sustained corner on bolts. A great pitch! Belay is on the left outside the crack.

4: 55m, 5.8. Continue up the crack on bolts until it turns left to a ledge. There are two bolted belays on this ledge, one on the right and one left. The one on the right can be used if needing to watch the second. But you will ultimately want to end on the belay on the left and this can be combined with the pitch itself easily.

5: 35m, 5.6. Step left and clip a bolt, then continue up and right on the blocky arete and bolts to a belay. Belay here or continue by traversing straight left across the chimney that is Cory Crack. The traverse is bolt protected and can be combined with the pitch with the use of long slings.

6: 50m, 5.6. Climb the wall above on bolts watching for loose rock on ledges.

7: 40m, 5.8. A thin move left leads to easier climbing. Climb the left facing corner until a ledge on the right and a belay.

8: 55m, 5.8. Climb a crack on the left until you are able to step back right and climb the face to the anchor.

Move the belay left to a single bolt besides a dead tree.

9: 50m, 5.7. Follow bolts up and right on the face to the top.

Continue 30 minutes to the summit or start the descent here.


The route is to the right of the prominent Cory Crack. If taking the #2 approach to the South peak, you will reach the cliff above and north of the route. From the cliff face descend scree slopes while staying close to the cliff and trend skiers left until you come to a gully with a small cliff approx 20m up. Scramble up the cliff and hike up the scree until reaching the obvious left slanting ramp. Single bolt at a dead tree to start.

Descent: From the last bolted anchor continue up slope 30m. From here traverse left on scree around a corner (flagging and cairn). Zig-zag on ledges to reach the shoulder on the left that can be seen below. To the right of the shoulder is a rocky gully that can be descended. From here many options exist. You could head straight down in to the drainage and follow it until reaching your approach trail. We chose to follow the base of the cliff around left until reaching a grassy chute. Head down this chute until it turns to mossy forest. Stay skiers left of the drainage proper and you should find an excellent game trail that will lead you to the creek crossing on the approach trail.


Route is almost entirely bolt protected. Single camalots from #s 0.5-2. 18 draws are needed with 4 of those being runners. All belays are bolted


More About Hoka Hey!