Type: Sport, 450 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Mark Whalen, 1994
Page Views: 208 total · 81/month
Shared By: Luka Bogdanovic on Apr 29, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

A great, high quality climb with the caveat that the first few moves off the ground are the crux followed by significantly easier climbing for the remaining 5 pitches.

Pitch 1, (Alternate 5.10c start), 25m: Start just under a small overhang with a very committing boulder move right off the ground. Clip 4 bolts before joining up the bolt line with the original start of Sea of Dreams.

Pitch 2, 5.7, 25m: Continue up the bolt line on significantly easier slabby climbing. Pitch 1&2 can easily be linked, although be aware of rope stretch for your second and the possibility of them decking off the first move on Pitch 1.

Pitch 3, 5.9, 25m: Move up and over a few almost overhanging sections with great exposure and big holds.

Pitch 4, 5.7, 20m: Follow the corner system staying right and avoiding the bolted line that goes on the slab to the left.

Pitch 5, 5.9, 25m: Step right from the belay station around the arete onto a couple great small ledgey footholds, then commit to climbing the face on runnels.

Pitch 6, 5.7, 20m (Easily linked with P5): Continue up from the belay station on easy broken ledges and slab to an awkward belay station in the middle of very low angle slab or just belay off the tree another 5 meters higher. There is one more station with cordage at a tree even higher, however belaying from here adds a high risk of rope knocking off some big loose rocks onto your second or other people below, don't do it.

Top out to a big ledge area where you can unrope, have lunch and take a look at a few of the single pitch routes above you.

Descend via 6 rappels.

Location

After working your way up the main gully to access Guide's Rock, turn left to the Main Area and follow it to the end of the access ledge.

Right before a small tree that marks the end of the ledge system is Sea of Dreams.Left side of the arete has a bolt in the middle of the blank rock, this is the original start. Right side of the arete has a bolt about 8 feet up right above a small overhang, this is the alternate start.

Protection

Fully bolted, 14 QDs is sufficient to link pitches.

Photos

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