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Routes in Take it for Granite

Aftonroe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheese Grater S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Sure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
T.Bam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Take It or Leave It S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Take it for Granite T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 8 pitches
FA: Mark Klassen & Todd Anthony-Malone
Page Views: 12,490 total, 167/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

From Alpinism.com:
alpinism.com
Guide’s Rock, Aftonroe (5.7)

Rack: 5 quickdraws and 2 long slings.

This climb is on the right-hand buttress of Guides Rock (Take it for Granite area). Aftonroe is the furthest line of bolts on the right side of the buttress, beside the climb For Sure and just before where the cliff becomes more broken. The first bolt is about 5 m up on excellent grey rock and the first anchor is on a ledge just above a tree and just below a short orange wall.

P1 5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts: To Sofa Ledge: Climb straight up past 4 bolts. At the fifth bolt a few harder moves lead up and right past 2 more bolts and an anchor on Sofa Ledge. (5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts)

P2 5.6, 15 m, 3 bolts: The Orange Wall: Climb up the short grey walls past a bolt to a ledge, being careful to avoid a few looser rocks in a corner. Ignore the rap anchor to the left (the top of For Sure). Walk right a few steps and climb the Orange Wall past a bolt to another corner and a third bolt. The anchor is on the ledge just above. (5.6, 15 m, 3 bolts)

P3 5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts: Formerly The Rhino Horn Pitch: The T-Bam Crack is to the right (5.9, thin hand to fist size cams). Starts up straight off the belay a bit right past a bolt. At the top of the corner, step up onto the wall beyond. Climb the crux of the route past bolts up steep incuts through the bulging Waves of Rock! At the top a surprising change of character leads to the anchor on the right. (5.7, 28 m, 7 bolts)

P4 5.5, 28 m, 4 bolts: The Best 5.5 in the Valley: The second bolt is a bit hidden on the Beautiful Slab. (5.5, 28 m, 4 bolts)

P5 5.6, 45 m, 4 bolts: Rocky Mountain Rambler: Walk up the slab to a bolt on the short, steep wall just to the right of easy ground. Ignore another bolt (ring) to the right, which is used on descent. Climb the wall to a ledge and then up a short layback crack past 2 more bolts. Exit to the right of the Dead Snag. Walk up the big ledge beyond to a bolt on the edge of a steep wall, but climb the easy ground to the right of that past the Rotten Log. The anchor is at the base of the next steeper slab. You can make this into two pitches if required, by belaying at a tree on the big ledge (5.6, 45 m, 4 bolts)

P6 5.7, 29 m, 7 bolts: The Overlap: Climb up the easy slab past bolts. Find the bolt above The Overlap, clip it, and pull the move. Continue up steepening ground and more hard moves on good incuts most of the way and belay on a ledge. (5.7, 29 m, 7 bolts)

P7 5.6, 28 m, 6 bolts: The Gillette Pitch: Handrail right to a slab, understanding how the pitch got its name. Climb up to the anchor on a ledge above. (5.6, 28 m, 6 bolts)

P8 5.3, 15 m: To Aftonroe Ledge: Step left and scramble up to a large ledge above. The anchor is a chain around The Twisted Tree. Check out the chockstone in the tree! Admire the view of the valley below, from Rundle to Pilot. (5.3, 15 m)

Descent: Rappel from the same anchors. The third rappel (Rocky Mountain Rambler pitch) is a full 30 m, make sure you tie knots in the ends of the rope. From the single ringbolt at the bottom of this rappel you can belay a climb down the easy slab to get to the next anchor.

A note on the name: The beautiful scene of river, pond and forest below the climb is now called “Backswamp” but in the distant past locals referred to it as Aftonroe. Local writer and newspaper columnist Jon Whyte regularly lamented this change. Jon died in 1992 and the naming of this route is made in his memory.

F.A. Todd Anthony-Malone, Mark Klassen; September 2011

© Mark Klassen 2011
about a week ago · Report

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All pitches are linkable if mindful of ropedrag by looking at their length. So, only pitch 5 can't be linked with something else.

Location

This climb is on the right-hand buttress of Guides Rock (Take it for Granite area). Aftonroe is the furthest line of bolts on the right side of the buttress, beside the climb For Sure and just before where the cliff becomes more broken. The first bolt is about 5 m up on excellent grey rock and the first anchor is on a ledge just above a tree and just below a short orange wall.

Protection

15 draws / slings if linking pitches.
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Great rock with incut holds just where you want them. The setting overlooking the valley was amazing. Well bolted, and just plain fun. Some of the ledges have loose rock so take caution when rappelling the route. Jul 6, 2017
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
This is a fantastic moderate climb! Thanks Mark and Todd for putting this up -- the bolts and anchors are really well placed, the climbing is fun throughout, and the views were stunning. Thank you so much for putting up this climb! Sep 20, 2016
Markuso
Fernie
  5.7
Markuso   Fernie
  5.7
Very well protected route with fun climbing. Approach took 25 minutes, steep, but not too difficult. Banff rock has this as 9 pitches (pitch 5 in this guide listed as 2 pitches). With a 70m rope we did it in 7 pitches total, linking the last pitch. 5 raps got us to a ledge between pitches 1 and 2 where we walked/scrambled off climbers right. May 4, 2016
MattR
  5.7
MattR  
  5.7
The difficulty of the approach seems to have been overstated by the sport climbers in the crowd. It's casual - my girlfriend did it in flip flops - you will be fine.

Great romping up beautifully featured stone. Can't think of a better first multipitch in the area for anyone looking to get into it. Nov 4, 2015
Tom Gnyra    
 
This isn't actually on guide's rock but on take it for granite area as per the guidebook, but if it stays here i will add routes i have done on this wall. Aug 18, 2015
Clint Landrock  
  5.7
Climbed this mid-June and it was a perfect intro to the sharp Rockies limestone. I recommend putting the helmet on before starting up the scree to the base of the climbs. We arrived mid-afternoon on a windy day with a party or two on Aftonroe and one on Take it for Granite, and the base of climb felt like a shooting gallery of small rocks whizzing by - I couldn't get my helmet on fast enough and get going onto the 1st pitch. Once on the climb we saw very little rock fall however, despite two parties descending off the climb while we were going up. It was VERY windy up there, I was almost blown over at the top of pitch 5 belaying the second. The potential for getting a rope caught seemed pretty high, although we managed it without incident. A party was coming up behind us on the first couple pitches, but retreated - likely spooked by the high winds. I linked pitches 8 and 9 without much rope drag which I would recommend as pitch 9 is easy ground, only 15m (one bolt) and the top of pitch 8 offers the smallest belay ledge - the only challenge on linking the pitches is communicating with your belayer / second. Jun 17, 2014
Jrd311
  5.7
Jrd311  
  5.7
very steep and loose scree on the aproach. 40 min aproach(the climb is easier than the aproach. Be very careful on the way down the footing is seriously loose but just pick up a good stick to catch yourself when you head up. I slipped and feet shot out from under me and slid on my back for a few feet it was pretty awakening. Overall it was a blast! Sep 28, 2012