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The Boulder Gardens Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Boulder Gardens

Arrowhead Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Barefoot Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Cathedral, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

CFB 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Dermis 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Dos Mas 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Dugout Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Dungeon, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Easy Traverse Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Goodnight Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Gravel Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Grit Block, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Half Cocked Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Hammer Head Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Honeycomb Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Johnny Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Lost Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Mack Dick Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Mice and Men 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Mini Blue 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Mushroom Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Ocean Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Oreo Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Poison Ivy Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Short Stuff Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Simulator Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Two Pin Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Vortex Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Wheel Shaped Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Yogi Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	2,816 ft	858 m
GPS:	34.941, -101.6521 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	79,077 total · 394/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Bauman on Sep 1, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing is Prohibited Details

December of 2024 Mountain Project received information that climbing has been prohibited for the past 2 years. Violations result in $250 fine. They have mounted trail cameras tp catch violators.

Description

This is the place to go for a quick bouldering fix in the canyon. Located right off the road most climbs can be accessed with a short 5 minute approach. Even though it is easily accessed, the boulder gardens rarely host more than one group of climbers. The rock quality is generally pretty good especially on the more popular boulders though even on well traveled problems holds will sometimes break.

Getting There

When the road splits at the Lighthouse trailhead keep left. Continue past the 4th water crossing. Keep your eyes open for a large pull out on the right across from three prominent boulders just off the road. Park here.

These are the boulders on the official Rock Garden Trail on the official state park map. Park at the trailhead.

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Boulder Gardens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V1 5 15 ● Short Stuff Boulder Short Stuff Boulder
V1 5 8 ● Oreo Warmup Boulder Oreo Boulder
V1-2 5 12 ● Unnamed 2 Boulder Oreo Boulder
V2 5+ 11 ● Bloody Shnidbit Boulder Mushroom Boulder
V2 5+ 8 ● Unnamed 3 Boulder Oreo Boulder
V2 5+ 11 ● Unnamed 1 Boulder Yogi Boulder
V2 5+ 8 ● The Johnny Boulder Boulder Johnny Boulder
V3 6A PG13 4 ● C.F.B. Boulder CFB
V4 6B 8 ● Unnamed 1 Boulder Oreo Boulder
V4 6B 5 ● Bloody Shnidbit Sit Boulder Mushroom Boulder
V4 6B 4 ● Champiñón Boulder Mushroom Boulder
V5 6C 6 ● My Heroes Are Cowboys Boulder Dungeon
V5 6C 5 ● Transitional Matrix Boulder Mini Blue
V5+ 6C+ 11 ● High on Fungi Boulder Mushroom Boulder
V8+ 7B+ 4 ● All Star Chuck Taylors Boulder Honeycomb Boulder