Friction Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.264, -76.791 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||20,151 total · 147/month|
|Shared By:||Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009 · Updates|
Despite the approach complication Friction has some great climbs. From the perfect slab of The Truth, to the 5.12 Drilled Pockets, to practice nailing, this forgotten relic finds a way to keep on giving.
While this area has been bolted in the past, use discretion and find a local that can help sort through the history of the area to make sure that a new route would indeed be new. Also a few routes here (on the Sport Wall) were "created" via chipping and drilled pockets. While this quarry is essentially man-made the current ethic is to leave the existing routes but to refrain from the creation of new ones.
The top of the cliff is subject to extreme erosion, and reaching the top anchors is best done by rapping off a tree. The severe rainstorm of 2016 that effected the area may have further destabilized the top, in particular a block has come off above and to the left of the main slab. Use your best judgement and consider evaluating the condition of the top-outs from above before climbing below.
A video showing some of the aid in the back right corner can be found here
Another possibility is at a new development that just went in off College Ave, at Old Leaf Ct and taking the first right on Red Stag Ct brings you to a dead end about 50 feet from the park boundary. At this time it is unclear if parking on the shoulder of the road and entering the park will be permitted however it may become an ideal access point. It may be more appropriate not to park at the very end of the street blocking the turnaround. Maintaining access is all about considering how your presence and actions affects others, and this also includes your safety on any property including the State park. Pleases let MAC know if you encounter any issues with these approaches.
Friction Wall Approach
Classic Climbing Routes at Friction Wall
Days w Precip