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Routes in Friction Wall

4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mike Carroll
Page Views: 2,062 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details

Description

The obvious bolted line up the slab. Do not be deceived by the angle! While only sitting at 60 degrees or so this climb requires exacting slab technique and foot strength.

Cruxes are likely the thin slab moves up to the small overhang, and also the thing traverse left 10 feet below the anchor.

A great climb to sick your bouldering friends on as it is so different from your day to day overhanging jug haul.

Originally done sans bolts by Mike Carroll back in the day!

Location

Start at the base of obvious large slab on the left side of the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. If setting up a TR think about rapping in from the large tree, both for your safety and to keep the erosion at the top to a minimum.

Due to the erosion, taking along a soft brush or just a shirt to get the sand off the holds before climbing is recommended.

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