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Routes in Friction Wall

4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mark Thesing, Eric Thesing, Paul Anikis
Page Views: 3,804 total · 38/month
Shared By: Mark Thesing on Apr 20, 2010
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Access Issue: Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details

Description

Scramble up to the base of the corner on the left side of the slab. Using both walls climb past the small overhang on the left wall. Move onto the face to finish.

This route back in the early 80s was a top rope route. Sometime between 1982 and 84 I placed 3 bolts on the face and to be best of my knowledge did the first free ascent. I replaced the bolt 3 times early on because some of the local climbers didn't think they belonged on the face.

Location

Left side of the friction wall

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Nathan berry
Columbus, GA
Nathan berry   Columbus, GA
Hey doesn't Eric Horst call this route a 5.10 in his guidebook? May 6, 2016
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
  5.8
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
  5.8
I've seen this climb is called Surrealistic Pillow and rated 10b. I don't understand that rating. There isn't a single move harder than 5.8 on it. May 7, 2016
The "Type" for this route is "Trad, TR" but the Protection section says "Bolts".
Can anyone comment on whether this is a sport route or not?
If it can be climbed Trad style, anyone know about the protection it takes? Apr 11, 2018
Mark Thesing
Central Indiana
  5.8
Mark Thesing   Central Indiana
  5.8
Conrad, I don't know what the current bolt situation is on the route. Originally it had 3 bolts and was bolted in a time that there was no such thing as sport and trad. Everything was trad back then. If a route was bolted then it was bolted with the intention of keeping people from dying. The first of bolt was about 35 feet off the deck. It's probably possible to get some small wire in before you make the moves to the first bolt. There is the potential of protection after the first bolt but is close enough to the first bolt that it probably isn't worth the effort. I would consider it old school trad. Definitely not a sport route unless its seen a lot more bolting. Apr 11, 2018

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