Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Friction Wall
|4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|FA:||Mark Thesing, Eric Thesing, Paul Anikis|
|Page Views:||3,386 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Thesing on Apr 20, 2010|
Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details
While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!
DescriptionScramble up to the base of the corner on the left side of the slab. Using both walls climb past the small overhang on the left wall. Move onto the face to finish.
This route back in the early 80s was a top rope route. Sometime between 1982 and 84 I placed 3 bolts on the face and to be best of my knowledge did the first free ascent. I replaced the bolt 3 times early on because some of the local climbers didn't think they belonged on the face.