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Routes in Friction Wall

4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 975 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details

Description

The most obvious of the routes on the sport wall. Climb straight up and the slightly right at the end to get to the anchors.

Created in the mid 90's this steep wall of drilled pockets is one of the more popular "project" routes in the area. Due to the nature of the climbing taping finger tendons is highly recommended. No real crux just sustained pocket pulling.

As an alternative this has been done as a clean aid route. Just take along a collection of hooks and experience A5 hooking right off the ground. The more sane will clip the bolts (just for gear not for aid) A couple other tips... watch your face if a hook pops, and a pink tricam would not go unused.

Location

On the Sport Wall

Find the two large anchor bolts at the bottom of the cliff, behind the memorial to young fellow who lost his life here recently. The steep line of pockets straight up is the route.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. The bolts while not new are in decent shape. If attempting this on lead it is probably worth rapping in and inspecting them before whipping on one.

Photos

Michael Poston
  5.11d PG13
Michael Poston  
  5.11d PG13
Slow going slab that was alot of fun. Would do again Nov 25, 2017