Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Friction Wall
|4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||975 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009|
Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details
While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!
DescriptionThe most obvious of the routes on the sport wall. Climb straight up and the slightly right at the end to get to the anchors.
Created in the mid 90's this steep wall of drilled pockets is one of the more popular "project" routes in the area. Due to the nature of the climbing taping finger tendons is highly recommended. No real crux just sustained pocket pulling.
As an alternative this has been done as a clean aid route. Just take along a collection of hooks and experience A5 hooking right off the ground. The more sane will clip the bolts (just for gear not for aid) A couple other tips... watch your face if a hook pops, and a pink tricam would not go unused.
LocationOn the Sport Wall
Find the two large anchor bolts at the bottom of the cliff, behind the memorial to young fellow who lost his life here recently. The steep line of pockets straight up is the route.