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Routes in Friction Wall

4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: John Kelbel 2006
Page Views: 1,616 total, 16/month
Shared By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details

Description

This route and Yoda's Vision both start off the same ledge, which is most easily reached from rappelling in from the top. Find the furthest most point of land at the top and use a high sling on the small tree as a directional.

Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.

A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.

Staying tied in while belaying from the ledge is highly recommended.

Location

Looking up from the base of the Sport Wall, there is a ledge 20 feet off the ground on the right side of the wall. While munge surrounds the lower wall and everything up and right, there are two clean lines leaving from the left side of the ledge. Hidden Art is the crack the goes straight up from the left edge.

Protection

Though likely lead-able, I do not think this has been led at this time. Gear is adequate but the rock doesn't not inspire a ton of confidence.

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