Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Friction Wall
|4 Bolts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drilled Pockets S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hidden Art T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Make Believe T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Truth, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Unknown 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Unknown 4 S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Yoda's Vision TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|FA:||John Kelbel 2006|
|Page Views:||1,616 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009|
Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details
While the actual cliff of Friction Wall is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. While climbers have been tolerated in the past, be discreet, park legally, and above all do not walk on the tracks!
DescriptionThis route and Yoda's Vision both start off the same ledge, which is most easily reached from rappelling in from the top. Find the furthest most point of land at the top and use a high sling on the small tree as a directional.
Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.
A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.
Staying tied in while belaying from the ledge is highly recommended.