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Routes in Violince Wall

Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Elevation: 5,267 ft
GPS: 32.237, -104.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,653 total · 53/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description [Edit]

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Getting There [Edit]

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Violince Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiddler on the Roof
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
"Number 3"
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fiddler on the Roof
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
"Number 3"
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Violince Wall »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Violin Wall....not violence.... Jan 30, 2008
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The topo I have, which was reportedly drawn by Gogas, refers to it in 3 spots as the "Violince Wall". Nowhere does it use the term "Violin". Jan 30, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
Hmmmm, I changed it back to Violince Wall... Jan 31, 2008
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I assumed the spelling was a typo, and they meant "violence". However, from Wikipedia:

"Violince is the debut album by rock/pop band Oppera. The band is fronted by pop singer Martika. The album combines the sound of goth music with pop/rock. It was released on an independent label and made available primarily at online music retailers."

So now we have three possibilities: Violins, Violince, and Violence. Jan 31, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Only route that I actually have heard a name for is Fiddler on the Roof. That 11a roof crack in the middle of the wall. Drew and Gillet both referred to this as Violin Wall. The other longtime locals never corrected any of us. Oh well.

Considering things, seems that correcting us over nuances of the name was not all that likely. It has probably been Violince all the while and I've been mistaken. Jan 31, 2008
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I have heard Gillet refer to this as Violin wall. Jul 28, 2008

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