Elevation: 5,267 ft
GPS: 32.237, -104.754 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,808 total · 78/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

The Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.

Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.

Getting There

Follow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Violince Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
Riot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Unknown
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 34
Fiddler on the Roof
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
"Number 3"
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Riot
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Unknown
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fiddler on the Roof
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
"Number 3"
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Violince Wall »

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