Violince Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Violince Wall
|Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|GPS:||32.237, -104.754 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||6,041 total, 50/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
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DescriptionThe Violince Wall, aka the Warmup Wall, features the best selection of moderate routes in the canyon. The black, grey and tan streaked limestone is of the highest quality, rivaling that of any cliff in the country. The wall faces Northeast, so receives some morning sun, making it a great cliff for warming up.
Routes here range from slightly slabby, to just past vertical, with the occasional roof or bulge. Grades range from 5.8 to 5.11+, with one 5.13a, Wild Deuces. Climbing is generally on thin pockets and edges. Good footwork and balance are essential, but the occasional bomber jug keeps things fun.
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
Getting ThereFollow the main trail from the parking lot, down into the canyon. This trail follows the crest of a descending spur in a N-NW direction. After ~5 minutes, a good trail breaks off to the right. Follow this trail to the N-NE. After ~100yds, a short 2nd class down climb is required (this can be tricky in heavy snow conditions). The trail bends back to the left, to another downclimb. After this second downclimb, the trail heads back to the SE, eventually traversing along the cliff base. A few short steep cliffs are passed before reaching the first established routes, on a long clean, 60-foot vertical panel of black & blue limestone. The first bolted route encountered is Poker Face Joe, 5.11b. Continue another 50 feet along the cliff base to a nice flat area, complete with stone benches, at the top of a small rise.
Classic Climbing Routes at Violince Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season