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Routes in Violince Wall

Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: JG?
Page Views: 319 total, 9/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

The hardest of the (4) .11s, this one adds a bit of power at the crux and is much more continuous. Hard move off the ground gains a good stance at some big holes. A powerful undercling follows allowing a long reach to a good pocket but then some bad holds. The climbing stays in the upper 5.11 range until on the slab. Continue up fun orange rock to the anchor. Great technical route. Very soft for 5.12 but also quite hard in the 5.11 grade. Classic 5.11d/.12a!

Location

Furthest right of the (4) 5.11 routes on the right side of the wall. Climbs up the awesome orangish rock on really cool pockets

Protection

Bolts to a rap hanger anchor

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Our whole group all agreed that this group on the right side of the wall were all worth doing and got better as you went right. Starting at Ferocity (.11a/b or so) they each got a letter grade harder as you went. All 4 are good technical face routes on perfect pocketed stone. Ed also thought that the .13 to the right (Wild Dueces)was the best thing he did all weekend! Dec 1, 2014