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Routes in Violince Wall

"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 507 total · 4/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

A mellow start working up to the first bolt where the angle kicks up you will find some excellent pockets. The crux comes at the bulge an you near the white section. The pockets disappear replaced by vague crimps and dusty slopers. Work through the slab section. The upper section adds a few more moves to the chains.

Location

Bolts just to the left of the big hueco. 2nd route from the left.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

That Big Hueco

Many perspective on sighters attempt this line and work toward the right, seeing the jugs in that juicy hueco. Avoid this mistake, as it takes pretty far off the intended line. Personally, I found it a more difficult option by comparision, and not nearly as much fun as the intended line.

Extension

Climb the top out section of Fiddler on the Roof. Wild airy top out! Long runner can fight rope drag.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
This guy's a lot easier (10b) if you climb ~2 feet left of the bolt line through the bulge. Feb 25, 2008

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