Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
Routes in Violince Wall
|Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||102 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
DescriptionClimb great pockets up to the bulge (crux) and make the long move, mantle up the easy slab section. Shorter climbers will have to get their feet unusually high to get through the crux, making the grade seem stiff.
It is tempting to climb off to the right, as the good holds go higher over there, but will take you way off line. Get the right hand into the key hold below the bulge. Bring up the left, onto the bad holds, more for balance, as you must get your right foot high, look for rubber skuffs, and then fire up to the small but good pocket up and left of the bolt. Don't get suckered by the slopey pocket that looks good but is terrible.
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