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Routes in Violince Wall

Ferocity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
"Number 3" S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hysteria S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Frets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face Joe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Riot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South American Bowtie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Summer Fugue S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violence S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zagreb (Unnamed 4) S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,676 total, 14/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Start up less than vertical, highly featured, beautiful limestone. Climb up through a mini-crack system (not crack climbing), through a small bulge (crux), past some ledges, and through more featured slab.

Location

Right side of the overhanging roof of the primary wall, climb the corner and finish up high.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Crux

The cruxy bulge can give the strongest climbers fits, which suprises most. Watched a stout 5.12 gym rat get spit out like a sunflower seed shell, LOL. Anyhow, as with most things in climbing, it is all about your feet. Throwing up a high left foot, shifting your weight onto it, using the holds for balance not to pull up, then stand up and walk....I mean climb to the next bolt.

Photos

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.8
Craig Childre wrote:The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot.
I can't say much regarding it being the best in the canyon, but I thought it was certainly better than Fossil Fuel, which was the only other 5.8 I did while I was there. I said one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, which really is not saying much either, I have not seen many great 5.8 sport routes in New Mexico (I'm comparing it with places in at my end of the woods, i.e: Datil, El Rito, Palomas, White Rock, etc.) Though, I have done better trad routes of the grade in the Sandias and at Tres Piedres. Mar 11, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
If we visit this wall, everyone usually does this route at least once. The best 8 in the canyon! LOL, with a total of three, that is saying alot. Mar 11, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.8
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.8
This route is one of the best 5.8's, if not the best, that I have climbed in New Mexico. Long (compared to most New Mexico routes), with flawless stone, it is not to be missed! Feb 25, 2008