Fiddler on the Roof [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3.2 from 20 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||2,553 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski|
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
Description [Suggest Change]
Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains.
Location [Suggest Change]
Look for the high roof with the beautiful finger crack splitting the final section. 3rd from the left.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Bolts, and Chains. Skip the last bolt, it is for top ropers and lowering off, it keeps the rope from getting caught down in the crack if your sagging through the last section. If you slip out of that crack, or even fall off the jug up top, the fall is long indeed, but really clean.
Wildlife [Suggest Change]
Sometimes the upper crack has a resident, so look before you throw in that finger lock. Considering one day we watched a 16" centepede crawl across our rope as it lay against the wall, my partner having just untied. The thing had a thicker body than our rope!
Bailing [Suggest Change]
Don't be scared of this one just because of that roof crack up top! Consider that if you can not unlock the moves on that upper crack (fairly common), then you can unclip the last two bolts under the roof and easily traverse over to the chains on #12. Have fun!