Elevation: 13,077 ft
GPS: 37.309, -118.765 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,771 total · 170/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 4, 2008 with improvements by Old Fogey
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The southernmost of a trio of peaks (Merriam, Royce, Feather) which enclose the west side of the Royce Lakes Cwm - or Hall of the Mountain Gods as I call it. As such the area is unusual in the High Sierra, as the peaks immediately west of the official crest are higher than the crest peaks.

Not only is there a classic IV 5.10 on the north buttress of this peak, but there has also been significant new route development there in the last few years, by Peter Croft, Lisa Rands and others.

Getting There

Take the Pine Creek Road off Highway 395 to the Pine Creek trailhead, by the Tungsten Mill. Hike up an old road switchbacking its way monotonously up to the forest, then round the corner and into the much better scenery at Pine Lake. Head around the north side of the lake and take the trail, past Upper Pine Lake, to Honeymoon Lake, continue to follow the trail to Granite Park – but cut south west when above the lake and head cross-country up and over Royce Pass (11,680ft). Head straight west to a wonderful gravel spot just north of the middle (largest) of Royce Lakes. A spectacular place.

Alternate route recommended by Squiddo and more than likely easier:

On the way back we took the alternate approach that heads West from the Southern end of the Royce Lakes Basin and travels across some very pleasant terrain to meet the Pine Creek Pass trail right below French lake above Pine Creek pass itself. The second part of this trail was very well cairned out and obviously used/loved/maintained.

Perhaps 1 hour max from the end of Royce Lakes to the Pine Lake Pass trail.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Merriam Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 56
Direct North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
The Flying Buttress
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 3
Gargoyle
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Direct North Buttress
 56
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
The Flying Buttress
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Gargoyle
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
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